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RRC Guide: Zen and the Art of Masturbation 5.12d **** (S)

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Stucco nu This route is located at in the Southern Region at
The Gallery
The Shocker

9. Zen and the Art of Masturbation 5.12d **** (S)
Next line right of Stucconu. Begin with an easy start then quickly transition to heinous crimping interspersed with mellow pocket climbing to reach the upper headwall. Try to get a shake then tackle the overhang to reach a jug. Trend left to hide in a large hueco for a bit then creep out to take the finishing jugs to the chains. Bolted by Troy Davison.

FA: Eric Stevenson, 2007.
Chains. Crimps. 70 ft.

  • Star rating is 4.6 (out of 5 votes)

  • Grade Concensus is 5.12d (out of 6 votes) 

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    SPRAY! (Contribute to the Online Guidebook)

    Submitted by: clmbnggeek
    Date: May 5th, 2007

    Submitted by: clmbnggeek
    Date: May 5th, 2007

    Route Comments
    User: Ray   Date: May 7th, 2007
    Comments: Does anyone know if Eric or Troy named this thing?
    User: clmbnggeek   Date: May 8th, 2007
    Comments: They named it Zen And The Art Of Masturbation
    User: someone   Date: Jun 17th, 2007
    Comments: great climb, not so great name
    User: someone   Date: Jun 19th, 2007
    Comments: 12c maybe d
    User: Andrew   Date: Jun 19th, 2007
    Comments: I'll go for d, but it is way harder than OJ, or any other 12c I have done.
    User: allah   Date: Jun 19th, 2007
    Comments: I would agree with 12c maybe 12d after more holds break up higher
    User: jonnyp63   Date: Jul 29th, 2007
    Comments: i think it might be a tall thing, it felt rather easy to me after i had a beta run, but my short buddy trick had a lot of troubles at the top and had to do a lot harder moves down low
    User: Horatio Felacio   Date: Sep 17th, 2007
    Comments: ray ellington, infamous guidebook author, sent this thing on his 2ND TRY on September 16, 2007!!!!!!!!!! That is why HE writes guidebooks!!!!!