ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

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ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby GStephens » Tue May 24, 2011 9:02 am

John and I have been to what climbers refer to as Roadside, but which in reality is the Training Fork Nature Preserve, LLC the past few weekend and what we have seen shocked both of us. One fundamental rule we have always enforced is NO NEW ROUTES OR GEAR is to be placed without our express consent. We noticed that what appear to be homemade permadraws have been installed on several route without our knowledge. I would like to know who took it upon the self to install these. They are unsafe as they appear to all have hardware store quick links connecting a few line of chain to the bolt hangers. These are not rated for climbing and have not been tested. In short, there is no quality control of these, nor do they appear to be stainless steel. At the end of the chain is an aluminum carabiner. This carabiner should be stainless steel so that it has the same materials properties as the other components - that is, steel. We all know about the cut rope at Muir last year due to carabiner wear. Think about the aluminum carabiners on these homemade permadraws and how the ones at crus sections will see hundreds of falls as compared to those on your own rack.

There is yet another problem. These permadraws drive more people to climb at the preserve, which is exactly what Jon and I do not want. If you can't hang your draws, you can't do the route. Permadraws encourage weaker climbers to get on harcer routs because they know they need not worry about cleaning their draws. Stick climb have come a long way since using the nearest trees limb. They can put up and remove draws using a Squid, Superclip or even a wood clamp. There is no god reason to have the permadraws and they detract from the area. Remember, every one of you are guests at the Preserve; it is not a climbing gym.

There were over 35 cars in the parking lot on Saturday and Sunday. Every route had multiple parties on or waiting for them. There were dogd digging deep holes, hammocks in trees, people pissing whereevere they wanted and the already severely eroded areas continue to be desimated. The Preserve aka Roadside, cannot sustain that much traffic.

As a result of the foregoing we are closing the Preserve (Roadside) to climbing effective immediately. Whoever installed the permadraws should contact me immediately so they can be removed. Also, the route that has been installed to the rightod Up Yonder must be pulled. The two tasks are the immediate prerequisites to reopening the Preserve to climbing.

We are presently developing a permit system much like the USFS in the Sierras to limit the number of people in the preserce and thereby minimize the ecological impact. Once these things are done we will slowly reintroduce climbing in the Preserve.

Finally, you should think twice before entering the Preserve during this closure. Wolfe County law enforcement and the local prosecutor are aware of the situation and will criminally prosecute any and all trespassers.



long way since using the
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby Eric Cox » Tue May 24, 2011 9:21 am

That's too bad, but I agree and support you guys 100% I'll post something here at Land of the Arches Campground this morning. Will climbers ever learn???
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Last edited by Eric Cox on Thu May 26, 2011 10:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby bcombs » Tue May 24, 2011 9:26 am

Grant, regarding the route to the right of Way Up Yonder, it's been awhile (maybe two years) but I was out there while it was being bolted. I recall the guys name was Mike and possibly went by "truthmiracle" here on RRC.com. I don't think it has ever seen an FA and the route looked to be really chossy the whole way. I also hear he bolted (or started to bolt?) some routes to the right of the slab in the back. Hopefully some of that helps.

Hey kids, Torrent was the first step, this is the second. Get it together.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby ReachHigh » Tue May 24, 2011 9:29 am

loved to death.

please respect the land owners wishes.


also does this include "The Zoo"?
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby Andrew » Tue May 24, 2011 9:50 am

I am sad that it has come to this, but happy that you had the guts to just close it. As brad said, "Get it together"
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby The Pirate » Tue May 24, 2011 9:56 am

Another one bites the dust....PLEASE folks respect the land and its owners...
If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains...You're lucky enough...
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby toad857 » Tue May 24, 2011 9:59 am

bcombs wrote:Hey kids, Torrent was the first step, this is the second. Get it together.


They don't use the site, so, this message will received by very few.

I feel sorry for what is about to happen to Muir in the wake of this.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby pkananen » Tue May 24, 2011 10:04 am

You know it's getting bad when climbers are shutting down access.

I used to think these closures would be the worst thing that could happen. Now I almost wonder if it's the best thing to happen. The problem is, climbers coming from anywhere won't find out till they get to the parking lot, and at that point, they may just ignore it.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby Indy » Tue May 24, 2011 10:04 am

Question: does this closure include non-climbers to the area?
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby GStephens » Tue May 24, 2011 10:24 am

Sorry for the poor grammer and errors in my post. It is the bane of the iPad.

Grant
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby caribe » Tue May 24, 2011 10:25 am

Indy wrote:Question: does this closure include non-climbers to the area?
How will they enforce the access restriction if they let people in? I think you should read this notice as no trespassing stay out; this property is closed until further notice.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby caribe » Tue May 24, 2011 10:26 am

GStephens wrote:Sorry for the poor grammer and errors in my post. It is the bane of the iPad.
Grant
I was just thinking you were pissed off. :?
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby caribe » Tue May 24, 2011 10:33 am

Let's stand ready to help whenever the owners need whatever they need to get the place re-opened. This closure breaks my heart. I cut my teeth at RS. RS has been a popular crag for a long time. Arguably it has been the most popular crag for the most neophytes at the Red. I was always amazed at how garbage-free and neat it has been maintained. In general the locals avoid RS during the weekends and busy holidays.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby toad857 » Tue May 24, 2011 10:42 am

i'm very surprised to hear that there is fixed gear going up on anything at roadside.
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Re: ACCESS TO ROADSIDE - closed unttil further notice

Postby climb2core » Tue May 24, 2011 10:45 am

This is a problem that is going to repeat itself over and over again. Popularity of the sport and the Red is exceeding growth of crag and route development. Sustainability is going to become an issue every where. I will be interested to learn more about Grant's land management model. I do want to say thank you for opening up your land to us for so long. I hope that we, the concerned contingent of the climbing community, can help be part of the solution.
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