Sculptor Loose @ Muir!

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Postby Lateralus » Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:39 pm

I'm curious about putting an X on a hold that will obviously come off. I'm not trying to pass judgement about hard working developers. The red is so far the only place I've encountered that people have actually gone to the trouble of marking dangerous loose rock and then leave it there for ? That's the question what are the developers leaving the loose rock for ?
Can someone elaborate on this-- good luck trying to convince me there is some good reason to do this.
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Postby antichrist » Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:45 pm

Dude, Developers are just freaking lazy.
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Postby Yasmeen » Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:53 pm

I thought Kipp was leaving it there to pay homage to all liberals. Not sure about other developers, though.
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Postby rhunt » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:00 pm

Isn't the X a Scottish sign or flag and something? His wife has on X on the bumper of her jeep, maybe Kipp put X's on routes for his wife.

Serisouly, with all the heavey stuff route developers drag up to the cliff you'd think it would be easy to throw in the crow bar that's in the truck of their car.
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Postby antichrist » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:08 pm

or small blasting caps.
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Postby pigsteak » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:12 pm

lateral,
the only time I leave X'd blocks is when it is holding another piece of crap rock in place...sometimes they are packed tightly, and disturbing one will disturb many...if it is a tad "off route", the X is merely a courtesy to the next person to climb....touch at your own risk.

rhunt has it right..it is a tribute to mrs. pigsteak, who in reality funds every route I put up...

oh yas, pulling out the libbie card again....we all know there aren't any libs at the crag....there mere presence would be a violation of the hallowed ground of the spiny billed worbler...true libs stay in the gym to protect the environment.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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Postby antichrist » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:20 pm

x marks the spot.....

It means, "Pull on this if your stupid"
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Postby dmw » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:35 pm

lol Yas...
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Postby ashtray » Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:13 pm

asdf
Last edited by ashtray on Sun Jul 29, 2007 1:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby SCIN » Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:30 pm

Dear Sculptor,

Can you please sculpt a lay-down ledge with no dirt in the middle of Cut Throat so that I may finally send.

Thanks,
Ray
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Postby weber » Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:08 pm

First, off I did not personally "sculpt" a hold in Muir. Nor, did I authorize anyone to do so - other than the occasional practice of smoothing an area that tends to cut or shread ropes. For an example, there is knife edge that damaged a rope rigged as a TR above "Short and Sweet" during our Climbing Camp. In the near future, I will either smooth that edge or put in different anchors.

There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.

In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.

In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.

Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.

If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.

If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.

Rick
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None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
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Postby 5.15climbers » Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:26 pm

fat out of shape phucks need clipping holds too!
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Postby Buster » Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:36 pm

weber wrote:In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.


BS! Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush. This is what it takes to do routes @ Muir. Please to not confuse this with normal practice


weber wrote:If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.


Not a problem.

weber wrote:If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.


...and step lively because the Prince of the Pile and your neighborhood watch officer will be by in the morning to collect urine samples.
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Postby Shamis » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:06 pm

This thread really leaves a lot of questions for the casual reader. Entertaining nevertheless.
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Postby weber » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:28 pm

Buster wrote:
weber wrote:In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock...


...Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush.


Thank you. I stand corrected. Just my opinion - not all, but most developers do most or all of these practices.

Rick
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