dustonian wrote:Scary. Had the biner ever been dropped from height as far as you know?
Cocoapuffs1000 wrote:It looks like it's too late, but if possible do not touch the broken surfaces back together - the manufacturer will want them undisturbed when they analize the break (I assume you will be sending it back to them)
gravitycoach wrote:Only one suggestion/comment - hang the draw with the gate facing away from your direction of intended travel. The moves past that bolt are up and right so the gate should be facing left. May or may not have had any impact on the outcome though. That's a bit freaky for sure!
dustonian wrote:Interesting point, but from the description it sounds like the gate of the upper biner was facing right and she was moving left. Unfortunately there is no silver bullet when it comes to that small but omnipresent background risk when trusting your hide to a single piece of gear, especially the non-locking aluminum variety. Just glad she was high on the route!
rawhuman wrote:Freak accident, but I have a pal who did the same thing twice. The culprit: opposed biners on quickdraws!
Basically look at the trashed biner, there is a snag scar a few cm from the nose. The bolt likely snagged the biner here, its not a proper angle where its load-rated, so it probably broke when the fall weight hit.
When gates are opposed on quickdraws and when we climb away from the rope end gate (as well all learn along the way...), the bolt end turns and the gate and nose faces up, always. In this case, gravity, route direction, rock features, fall angle/force, Jupiter not aligned with your lucky star, etc, conspired against you. I didnt believe ever that this was an issue, I used to do it. Then I met a guy who explained this all to me after he broke two draws doing it, I changed my ways, it hasn't happened to me, yet.
Dont oppose gates on a biner and the bolt end will most of the time sit in the nice rated basket part of the biner. Oppose the biners and the bolt end gate will always face up when you climb away from the gate, and sometimes creep close to the biner nose. I'll wait for the Petzl jury (in their catalog the biners face both ways, but no comment on why they do this..) but thats my two cents.
lena_chita wrote:There were no falls or takes on the rope in the 3 days prior to this fall, so you can’t even say that the rope was stretched out from too many subsequent falls in a short period of time, and was thus less dynamic that optimal. I weigh 105 lb. Somebody else can try and calculate the forces, but in terms of climbing falls, this is as light as it gets.
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