Nice Job!!!!

steep4me · Lame Wade Joined: 16 Jun 2003 Posts: 408 Location: Atlanta

Super cool send! That wall is so awesome looking--it is fun that it is officially climbable now (at least by mutants)! Is the bee hive still up there?
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Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.

toad857 · Lame Wade Joined: 13 Dec 2007 Posts: 542

at58474 · Gumby Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Posts: 3

Well first things first, I give my thanks to Kenny for bolting yet another perfect route here at the Red River Gorge! It still amazes me that routes that this can even exist, every hold seems as though it was sculpted and purposely placed. As for all of the effort and frustration I put into this route, it was totally worth every second, not sure this is true for Rachel though(my belayer). Most routes that take more than a couple weeks to complete usually bring boredom eventually leading to giving up, but not this one.
As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating.
For those asking about the name, I'm not sure what the ethics are surrounding this, but it seems like the name has already grounded itself.
Adam

Andrew · Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:25 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the story adam, and congrats. I am glad a local, or at least local enough did it first. Its good to see your hard work pay off.
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Living the dream

toad857 · Lame Wade Joined: 13 Dec 2007 Posts: 542

well done.

the lurkist · In Crust We Trust Joined: 13 Nov 2002 Posts: 1749

I love the understated humility. Well done.
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... That’s really life. You don’t have a title — you just exist. Some days you have good days; some days your back hurts.
Miguel

allah · Went Down On It Joined: 14 Jan 2003 Posts: 1242

Thats awesome adam, nice job im so psyched that thing can be climbed. As far as naming it mike and I just threw that name out there, if you have somthing else in mind go for it, you crushed that thing.

pigsteak · Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject:

killer Adam! thanks for the play by play..that was awesome!
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Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

anticlmber · Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:38 pm Post subject:

man my hands are sweating.

nice adam, nice.
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really?? i mean, really??

Spoonman · Gumby Joined: 19 Dec 2002 Posts: 139 Location: Muscatatuck

Good job Adam! This is the best looking line I have ever seen. It is cool you kept at it. Good vision Kenny.

G

SCIN · Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:54 am Post subject:

Kenny sucks im so glad he is moving to CO. I feel he is just a lucky mother fuck. everyone else told him about and he is the chump that went and bolted that junk (no offense adam what you did was rad) Now we can climb in the red and not have to worry about that smelly bum
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Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

Yasmeen · Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:41 pm Post subject:

the lurkist · In Crust We Trust Joined: 13 Nov 2002 Posts: 1749

That isn't the SCIN I know. He would never say that.
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... That’s really life. You don’t have a title — you just exist. Some days you have good days; some days your back hurts.
Miguel

Josephine · Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject:

bradkillough · Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:19 am Post subject:

Awesome send Adam!!
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Beat your plowshares into swords, your prunning hooks into spears; let the weak say I am strong. Joel 3:10