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Sculptor Loose @ Muir!
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Lateralus
925 Challenged


Joined: 24 Oct 2002
Posts: 901
Location: far from "THE" sandstone

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious about putting an X on a hold that will obviously come off. I'm not trying to pass judgement about hard working developers. The red is so far the only place I've encountered that people have actually gone to the trouble of marking dangerous loose rock and then leave it there for ? That's the question what are the developers leaving the loose rock for ?
Can someone elaborate on this-- good luck trying to convince me there is some good reason to do this.
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antichrist
George W. Bush


Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 13
Location: earth

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude, Developers are just freaking lazy.
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Yasmeen
"53><`/ 817(|-|"


Joined: 08 Oct 2002
Posts: 4401
Location: Cincinnati, OH

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought Kipp was leaving it there to pay homage to all liberals. Not sure about other developers, though.
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rhunt
Suspiciously French


Joined: 29 May 2003
Posts: 3078
Location: Cbus

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't the X a Scottish sign or flag and something? His wife has on X on the bumper of her jeep, maybe Kipp put X's on routes for his wife.

Serisouly, with all the heavey stuff route developers drag up to the cliff you'd think it would be easy to throw in the crow bar that's in the truck of their car.
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antichrist
George W. Bush


Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 13
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

or small blasting caps.
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pigsteak
pimpin' playa banger


Joined: 17 Jun 2003
Posts: 7906
Location: in my skirt

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lateral,
the only time I leave X'd blocks is when it is holding another piece of crap rock in place...sometimes they are packed tightly, and disturbing one will disturb many...if it is a tad "off route", the X is merely a courtesy to the next person to climb....touch at your own risk.

rhunt has it right..it is a tribute to mrs. pigsteak, who in reality funds every route I put up...

oh yas, pulling out the libbie card again....we all know there aren't any libs at the crag....there mere presence would be a violation of the hallowed ground of the spiny billed worbler...true libs stay in the gym to protect the environment.
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antichrist
George W. Bush


Joined: 01 Jun 2007
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Location: earth

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x marks the spot.....

It means, "Pull on this if your stupid"
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dmw
A Work of Art


Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 2106
Location: Bozeman, Montana

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol Yas...
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ashtray
Projecteer, Team Crust


Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 499
Location: asdf,asdf

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asdf

Last edited by ashtray on Sun Jul 29, 2007 4:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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SCIN
BANNED


Joined: 20 Sep 2002
Posts: 4609
Location: Lexington, KY

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear Sculptor,

Can you please sculpt a lay-down ledge with no dirt in the middle of Cut Throat so that I may finally send.

Thanks,
Ray
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weber
Ninja Warrior
Ninja Warrior


Joined: 24 Sep 2003
Posts: 800
Location: Indy & Wolfe Co., KY

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, off I did not personally "sculpt" a hold in Muir. Nor, did I authorize anyone to do so - other than the occasional practice of smoothing an area that tends to cut or shread ropes. For an example, there is knife edge that damaged a rope rigged as a TR above "Short and Sweet" during our Climbing Camp. In the near future, I will either smooth that edge or put in different anchors.

There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.

In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.

In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.

Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.

If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.

If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.

Rick
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5.15climbers
Gumby
Gumby


Joined: 11 Jun 2007
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fat out of shape phucks need clipping holds too!
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Buster
The Dribbler


Joined: 29 Oct 2002
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

weber wrote:

In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.


BS! Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush. This is what it takes to do routes @ Muir. Please to not confuse this with normal practice


weber wrote:

If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.


Not a problem.

weber wrote:

If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.


...and step lively because the Prince of the Pile and your neighborhood watch officer will be by in the morning to collect urine samples.
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Shamis
bottom feeder


Joined: 02 Jan 2007
Posts: 1058

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread really leaves a lot of questions for the casual reader. Entertaining nevertheless.
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weber
Ninja Warrior
Ninja Warrior


Joined: 24 Sep 2003
Posts: 800
Location: Indy & Wolfe Co., KY

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buster wrote:
weber wrote:

In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock...


...Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush.


Thank you. I stand corrected. Just my opinion - not all, but most developers do most or all of these practices.

Rick
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