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Shakedown Street

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at The Dome

Diana-Mo-Hum


5.
+0
0 votes

Eye of the Storm 5.8 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Dirk Wiley in 1981
Length: 90ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route is located 50 feet right from Shakedown Street and is marked by an obvious triangular roof about 30 feet up. Climb a crack up to the roof then step out right around the overhang and into a left-facing dihedral. Continue up the crack to a point where you can traverse right to some trees. Rappel from a tree to descend.
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4 stars (5 votes)
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5.9+ (3 votes)

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Submitted by: Bluelopez100
Date: Jan 2nd, 2011

Comments

1
Danny said on September 19th, 2005
This is a great route. I think the grade is 5.9-10a with lots of sustained climbing. The traverse to the belay is scary. You can do a scary mantel up to a ledge on the traverse.
2
ynot said on October 31st, 2005
Jeeze Danny,I knew it was hard but I thought the moves were 5.8. Just lots of 5.8 moves. sending it was sweet,it's a stellar line,clean falls, nice and long,great jams. Needs anchors or something,because the traverse is freaky.digging your nails in soft dirt freaky. Hanging belay at the top and another at the rap tree worked well but it was time consuming.
3
Danny said on November 2nd, 2005
Jesse. if you say it's 5.8 then it's 5.8. But I thought the traverse was at least 5.9.
4
Danny said on November 2nd, 2005
I just put a long sling at the top of the crack and traversed to the tree without setting a belay. It makes the fall potential longer but the fall looks reasonably clean and you avoid the time waste.
5
ynot said on February 1st, 2008
I didn't mantle up to the ledge. It would make it harder. Slinging tiny rhodos and using moss and dirt for hands along that ledge was pretty sketch, but I believe the feet are nice going lower like I did. I'm glad I did the hanging belay. I was pretty wasted at the top of the crack. Even with the lichen the route is kick ass.
6
dustonian said on November 22nd, 2012
Killer adventure jamming. Pulled the half-anchor up top, if you want to skip the mantel/traverse plan on leaving some cord and at least a pink tricam or something...just one nut at present there. Beefed up the tree anchor, the webbing was pretty shredded.
7
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2015
What are the ethics on adding a bolted anchor to the top of this route? From a conservational standpoint It sounds like more damage is being done by the traverse and/or leaving gear behind. Thoughts anyone?
8
climb2core said on June 14th, 2015
Best to don't ask and don't tell.
9
Anonymous said on June 15th, 2015
And now that you put that in a public Internet forum that is read by forest service you really don't help the cause. Just let it be, it's not been needed so its really not needed. Glad to see ethics are still alive and well.
10
Sco Bro said on June 8th, 2020
There is a gear anchor at the top of the crack. It was 2 very well slotted nuts. Today we added a third and replaced the webbing. Great climb.