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A Wave New World

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Death Wish


7.
+1
1 votes

Make a Wish 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Christina Bronaugh in 1999
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left from the approach trail about 20 feet to find this line. Boulder up to good holds, move right around a flake/overhang, then surmount a ledge. Climb pockets and small edges, then jugs to the top of a point of rock.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.51 stars (142 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (138 votes)

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Submitted by: Roger
Date: Mar 1st, 2013

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
tomdarch said on May 31st, 2003
5.10c! We were debating 5.10a vs 5.9!
2
merrick said on October 14th, 2003
Yea, I agree. It felt easier than 10c, i would say 10a most likely.
3
dah-le said on June 2nd, 2005
watch the many x'd blocks at the first shelf...and some of the stuff inside the dark hole doesn't sound so nice. I opted not to use it. Also note the root which is wedged in the rock somewhere before the 2nd
4
travelinyouth said on October 16th, 2006
climbed this oct 11th 06 and there was a copper head in the clipping jug for the second bolt. Four of us climbed it and only while going to clean that 2nd bolt did my buddy see it; be careful!!
5
endercore said on January 7th, 2007
no way it is a 10c i'd give it 10a
6
Myke Dronez said on March 16th, 2008
I'm glad to see that Iclimb514 is contributing to the consensus and not just bitching and moaning.
7
Anonymous said on March 16th, 2008
wouldn't consider this 10c.. much easier/straightforward than say, breatfast burrito.. new guide book has it at 10a which i'd aggree with
8
Josephine said on March 30th, 2008
i thought this route was super fun - regardless of whether it was 10a or 10c! worth doing for sure.
9
Lander said on March 31st, 2008
much cleaner and therefore much funner than it used to be. grade of 10b i say.
10
Josephine said on March 31st, 2008
if you're hanging draws for your partner - a long draw at the 5th bolt is a good idea.
11
allen said on April 29th, 2009
I think 5.10b. Pumpy seperated by good rests
12
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2012
4-9-2012; nice warm-up; pretty straight forward with no crux
13
[email protected] said on June 1st, 2012
The left anchor bolt is spinning right now. Not sure if tightening it will do any good (I didn't have a wrench with me yesterday) or if it is just stripping out of the rock. There is a biner left on the last bolt so that climbers can lower off a good anchor, a bad anchor, and a back-up biner.
14
failure2send said on November 26th, 2012
Very solid 10b - well protected with good hand/foot holds and the bolts are well placed - seemed like the crux it at the 4th or 5th bolt, in which you have a right pinch and a sketchy left hold (just get your feet up and in a good stance to clip). On the ledge right below the chains, there's a crack/slot directly in the back that'll allow you mantel up (and use the left hold/plate thing). If the route was shorter, it'd rate a 10a.
15
btbradley said on October 21st, 2013
anyone got any info (grade?) on the extension above this route?
16
Saxman said on October 22nd, 2013
Extension was there a month ago. Rock quality is not that great but better than it looks from the ground. No red tag. 11+/12-
17
shadow.ayala said on October 22nd, 2013
There is no red tag because it is not a project. The extension is called 'Death wish' and it goes at .12a. For some reason, Ray did not add it to the online guide after I sent. Not sure why.
18
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2013
No point in doing it unless I can get the points. C'mon mods... ;)
19
Anonymous said on June 23rd, 2015
What's with the red tag on this route?
20
Anonymous said on June 23rd, 2015
Probably the anchor issue: http://badbolts.com/bolt_reports/55719b51608cb90003000109
21
craig.smith1 said on June 24th, 2015
I took care of the spinner on the anchor but I left the red tag in case it was something with Death Wish, the extension.
22
Anonymous said on June 20th, 2016
As of June 2016, there is a bumble bee nest in the dirt about 6 or 7 feet to the left of the anchors. They're not aggressive, but I recommend not spending too much time up there.
23
sbailey077 said on June 24th, 2019
One of the bolt hangars was spinning on this route this past weekend, I think it was the 5th but not 100% sure. Probably just needs tightened but i didn't have a wrench on me, just a heads up.
24
trauma said on March 25th, 2021
That bolt hanger is still spinning. I tried to tighten it with a wrench but it wouldn't budge. I counted it at 6 but may have been off. Or maybe it's a new spinner. But it still needs to be replaced. The glue-ins on Breakfast Burrito and other routes were great.
25
said on March 25th, 2021
If I can get a bolt puller, I have FGI bolts to replace this. Don't want to leave a hanger on this for too long, being so popular. Let me know if someone with the puller will come behind me and pull the old bolt if I add a new one next week. Love the new site!!! Seems like a climbing website, finally!
26
DrRockso said on March 25th, 2021
I'm confused, if you're not going to reuse the hole you do not need a bolt puller, just a wrench or a breaker bar.
27
trauma said on August 15th, 2021
Wouldn't best practice be to pull the bolt, make a hole for hole replacement, and put another fully stainless steel sleeve bolt in? Rock is a limited resource. We don't want the cliff looking like Swiss cheese for the next generation.
28
dustonian said on August 16th, 2021
Best practice is to pull the bolt with a bolt puller or breaker bar, drill out the hole with a rebar cutter if necessary, meticulously clean the hole and fill it with a glue-in.
29
said on August 18th, 2021
I couldnt find who has the FGI bolt puller, so ill just let someone else take care of it. Being one of John's routes, I think the spinner crux bolt should be replaced using the same hole.
30
trauma said on September 9th, 2021
Yeah agree on that. Replacing with a glue-in would be best. I have a bolt puller. I'm coming in October. If you want to meet up I can pull the bolt if you have FGI hardware.
31
said on September 9th, 2021
Id be good for that. If you want to meet in the evening, we could knock it out after everyone is cleared out.
32
trauma said on October 9th, 2021
said I can't DM you. Your account name link won't open. Hit me up so we can coordinate. I have a bolt puller but we will need a hammer drill and some other tools to get that bolt out.