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Armadillo

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

 Chimp

3.
+0
0 votes

Jailbird 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams in 2003
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the previous two lines scramble down from the ledge and this will be the next line encountered on the trail. Climb up to a swooping overhang 15 feet up and make a sketchy 2nd clip. Pull hard on tiny edges for two bolt lengths then enjoy jug hauling through overhangs to the anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.34 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (54 votes)

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Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Comments

7 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2004
I climbed this routeon 8\6\04 it was fun but tricky moves at 2nd to 4th bolt.
2
merrick said on October 29th, 2006
a fun route with a hard crux and lots of easy climbing. crimps, slabby moves, a roof and much much more
3
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
I easily onsighted this in the pouring rain when I was just starting to climb 5.11s. There's no way it's 10d. At best it's 10a. It's a really great climb though and I definitely enjoyed the mini roof. I would give it 4 stars.
4
Saxman said on June 11th, 2009
One very hard crimp move followed by 10a climbing.
5
Spikeddem said on April 1st, 2012
10a is a sandbag for this route. 10d seems right. Not sure how someone breaking into 11's could do this in the rain and call it 5.10a Fun route regardless.
6
tpowell said on September 8th, 2013
Definitely harder than the 10d to the right, especially in summer. It's still a super good route if you enjoy face climbing. It's too bad that it turns to giant jugs after the 4th bolt.
7
krisbranin said on April 2nd, 2014
Not sustained but the crux is definitely a 10d crux at least. Probably 5.8/9 after the roof pull move. Loved the climb though