Lucky Duck Soup

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Chester Fried Chicken


43.
+0
0 votes

The Perfect Pint 5.4 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Tony Panozzo, Jared Hancock, Curtis Williams in 2003
Length: 0ft
Gear: Standard rack. (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the short splitter hand crack just right of Lucky Duck Soup.
Descent: Rap from anchors.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.47 stars (51 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.4 (43 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 9th, 2015

Submitted by: Roger
Date: Jun 2nd, 2012

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Feb 12th, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Wicked Tribe said on September 18th, 2003
The picture is of the splitter crack but the route description makes it sound like its the dihedral to the right of that. Which is it?
2
Andrew said on September 30th, 2003
Pretty sure its the splitter. The rock quality is bad.
3
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2004
It is the arching dihedral to the right of Lucky Duck. The rock quality sucks. (The splitter in the pic is Broken Chicken Wing, which is great!!)
4
J-Rock said on July 7th, 2004
A friend of mine climbed this route and built a gear anchor. He named the route "The Perfect Pint" after his favorite drink. Later that day other climbers came, bolted anchors, claimed the FA, and renamed the route. FA should read: Tony Panozzo, Jared Hancock, Curtis Williams. Beware of the resident copperhead in the crack.
5
hamsco said on October 22nd, 2004
Jared is right about the crack in the picture, T. Panozzo has the FA. Chester Fried Chicken is the arching dihedral about 8 feet to the right. All three routes on the slab use the ring anchors for the decent.
6
Steve said on November 7th, 2004
YIKES, copperhead in crack?! When was this? No snake on Nov 6, 04.
7
woman said on September 17th, 2006
Very sandy. Very very sandy. I took a huge whipper when whatever I was standing on decided to blow. Oops.
8
ReachHigh said on September 25th, 2006
very poor rock quality. but mostly stays dry.
9
rockmuelle said on October 16th, 2006
Not sure what all the negative comments are about. This was a nice, easy 5.4 with solid rock down low and some brittle rock up top - but the top section is easily climbed as a slab and you don't need any of the questionable holds. I didn't find much sand on the route, maybe recent rains have washed most of it off? The picture is correct and is definitely not Broken Chicken Wing (a good route in its own right, but clearly not 5.4 :) ).
10
Wolf said on October 16th, 2006
Just about all the holds are questionable.my second broke off some big footholds last week. The belayer should wear a helmet or be ready to dodge.
11
Josephine said on October 28th, 2007
must have cleaned up a bit in the past few years. as a beginning trad leader, this was a nice climb where i could work on placements. great feet and nothing was breaking. slightly sandy towards the top.
12
Danny said on May 25th, 2008
eats nuts all day
13
dirtdog said on May 27th, 2008
Rock quality was fine. fun easy route
14
chandler said on August 19th, 2013
Rock quality fine. Wasp quality not fine. I was stung 4 times by a single wasp mere 5 feet from the chains. Didn't see a nest but figured one was close. Fortunately it's an easy down climb to fetch all the gear. That was 2 weeks ago. Must not have been a fluke. I heard that yesterday a girl was stung multiple times with many wasps emerging from a crack near the chains.
15
veela-valoom said on November 13th, 2016
Rock quality seems fine now. This was 4th trad lead and I kind of wish it had been my first. Great stances to figure out your gear (a lot where you can just stand on great feet and not worry about hands).