Cordelia

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Del Boy


34.
+1
1 votes

Us and Them 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Greg Martin, Gregg Purnell in 2003
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the top of the stairs, take the trail to the right for about 300 feet to a ledge atop a flat bolder. This is the first bolted line encountered on the ledge.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Torrent Falls
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.09 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (23 votes)

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Comments

1
Spoonman said on June 30th, 2003
FA: Greg Martin, 2002
2
Power2U said on July 31st, 2003
This route is pretty good. Technical crux at mid height, with cool moves that flow well down low & the rock is pretty solid....BTW Soundgarden rules:)
3
Power2U said on August 7th, 2003
Hey, the name changed...? Was Spoonman?
4
ray said on August 28th, 2003
Yea, I knew it was Spoonman's route so I called it Spoonman. I finally got the correct name of the route.
5
jefflehmkuhl said on June 27th, 2004
very tricky crux...easy to screw up first try
6
Gaar said on February 12th, 2005
Awsome Climb!!!!! Super Technical
7
EverythignElse said on March 14th, 2005
my bud took a crazy fall trying to clip in to second bolt, almost decked out. then working his way over the 3rd bolt busted off the only "solid" hold he had left . then had to ditch.
8
Gaar said on March 25th, 2005
Yeah i took his bail binner!! Black locking REI one right? Its a great climb get on it again when your stronger!
9
Green3 said on May 1st, 2006
The crux bolt (second to last) was loose on Sunday April 30, I didn't have a wrench, but told someone who said they would tighten it down this week. If this message is recent, just check it.
10
TVA said on July 6th, 2006
crux bolt is tightened down as of july 4th 2006. Great route by the way- climbs well and what a crazy crux!!
11
anticlmber said on October 5th, 2007
bolt at top (2nd to last) loose and wiggly as of 10/4/07. fell on it a few times just make sure the nut is on it. will try to replace sooner than later. great route all in all.
12
anticlmber said on November 6th, 2007
12a???? 11d. seems more like it. i guess it depends if you see what you should see the first time.
13
Kai said on November 7th, 2008
Very soft for the grade, but a great route!
14
512OW said on June 21st, 2009
Great route. The middle 40 feet are some of the best climbing on any 12 in the Red.
15
bcombs said on October 12th, 2010
Super fun. Tricky crux. The windmill move up to the jug was cool. Might be hard if your fingers are big, the crux crimp / slots were pretty small.
16
climb2core said on November 16th, 2010
Really fun line. I really liked the crux move to throw to the ledge. Had to get your hand up quick because for me it seemed like I had to pull into the wall as hard as I could and then catch the ledge before I fell. After working on Bare Metal Teen, this felt like 11c. Great eye by the FA.
17
Sco Bro said on June 15th, 2012
The crux is way easier if you have little fingers. You won't need to go left at all.
18
climb2core said on June 15th, 2012
Sco Bro, you must have Burger King hands ;) I could barely jam my fingers into those slots and got them stuck trying to pull them out several times.