Skin Flute

This route is located in the Southern Region at Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED

Blue Plate Special


7a.
+0
0 votes

Crazy Game Of Poker 5.11d (Sport) *

First Ascent: Sam Cervantes, Therese Condit, Chris Wenz, Keith Long in 2003
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the bolted line 15 feet right of Skin Flute. Begin just left of the first bolt. Boulder up the technical start to an easier finish. Variation start (5.10): Begin by climbing the first 15 feet of Blue Plate Special. Traverse left once you reach the ledge to regain the route.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.33 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (6 votes)

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Comments

1
allah said on July 29th, 2003
more like 11b to me, and only 1 star, hvae definatly been on better routes
2
said on September 12th, 2003
Its like a girl with a big ass and no tits........all the business is at the bottom!!!
3
the lurkist said on September 22nd, 2003
The lurkist said- squeeze job. i guess there is some value in having aonther option for climbing at a staging area where a bunch of people ae already hanging out. That said, I think this is clearly an example of where the route doesn't pass the test of "If there were no other routes around and I walked up on it, would I equip it?" There is just too much other rock in the Big Sinking that would yield four star classic lines to warrant over bolting a 35 foot squeeze job. Sorry to slag. Nothing personal intended.
4
Power2U said on September 29th, 2003
One move wonder...cool move, but a one move wonder none the less. You do it on TR as you would stick clip the first bolt, due to the rock at the climbs base, which also takes away from the climb. Kinda weird that way the climb ends in the middle of the cliff too, and I am not sure 11d is accurate, probably easier like Allah suggests.
5
vic said on October 22nd, 2003
I can't climb 11's, yet I onsighted it... The bottom feels no harder than a 10d, and the top no harder than a 10a.
6
Anonymous said on April 26th, 2004
If you're going to rate a route according to it's single hardest move, 11.d is right on. The boulder problem at the start is at least V3 (11.d)
7
Gaar said on August 17th, 2004
Fun route. I liked it
8
Major Tom said on January 8th, 2005
Did the 5.10 version
9
Anonymous said on May 16th, 2005
I agree wit da lurk, squeeze job-a-rino. What a pile of choss!!!