No Fluff

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Mr. Roarke


24.
+1
1 votes

Brilliant Orange 5.13a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kenny Barker, Rob McFall in 2005
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next route just right of No Fluff. Belay from the platform. Climb through sustained moves to an exciting dyno going for the anchors.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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5 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (1 votes)

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Comments

1
allah said on May 31st, 2005
a very fun aestetic line
2
One-Fall said on July 1st, 2006
Bad crimps with long moves between them. Incredibly long dyno going for the anchors.
3
Anonymous said on February 15th, 2008
kenny 13a + 5 foot dyno does not equal 13a
4
allah said on February 16th, 2008
Its not 13a to a 5 foot dyno, its 13a to the top. The climbing up to the dyno isn't that hard, its just a lot different than anything in the red. Compare this route to any 13- in the New and you might see why it is rated the way it is.
5
Saxman said on September 17th, 2013
Is there a reason more people don't do this route?
6
dustonian said on September 17th, 2013
it's vertical
7
allah said on September 18th, 2013
People are scared, it requires knowledge about rock climbing. In the New this would easily be 12c
8
dustonian said on September 18th, 2013
and 13b/c at Ten Sleep...
9
THB said on September 18th, 2013
The New is stout... Ten Sleep is soft... These comparisons bother me... can you compare to specific routes? That would be more helpful. EKV (12c) in Ten Sleep was much harder for me than Finders Keepers (12c) at the New. The Insect (12d) in Ten Sleep is much harder for me than Slash & Burn (12d) at the New. I just need to go get on this thing and find out for myself, huh? It looks amazing, by the way, and I too am surprised it doesn't see more traffic. Probably because people identify the Gold Coast with routes like Golden Boy.
10
brayackmedia said on October 20th, 2014
This one is definitely mid range 5.13. Certainly harder than a lot of Endless Wall 5.13as...(and 5.13bs). Definitely a sandbag. A good route none the less though.
11
allah said on October 22nd, 2014
Jesus and Tequila=Harder, RainyDay route=harder, Xanth=WAY harder, Quinsanna=Harder these are the ones that I remember names and were substantially harder than Billiant Orange :) I do wish I spent more time in the New though!
12
Cocoapuffs1000 said on December 16th, 2014
I haven't tried this route, but no way is Jesus & Tequila 5.13 by the standards of the New or the Red
13
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2015
Valuable writing , Speaking of which , if anyone has been looking for a 2012 BEA BE-12C , my assistant edited a template version here be-12c form.
14
Chuckdott said on December 3rd, 2016
This route is incredible - a perfect Red River version of a New River climb. This felt very reminiscent of Quinsana to me, and similar difficulty.