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Bitchmobile

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pistol Ridge

Edge of Night


33.
+0
0 votes

Dreams V3 (Bouldering) *****

First Ascent: Chris Chaney in 2000
Length: 0ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Head about a 100 yards past Bitchmobile to a small ampitheather. This is the obvious problem is the on the slightly overhanging face of the free standing boulder.
Moves: Sidepulls
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.67 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (3 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wes said on September 10th, 2003
Best problem of it's grade in the RRG. Great moves to a cool topout.
2
Wicked Tribe said on September 10th, 2003
V3 is right on if you have it wired.
3
Stewy911 said on March 27th, 2004
i agree V3 if uhave it wired, but if u dont id say a bit harder. awesome boulder problem. you dont even need a pad, i didnt when i did it
4
hoss said on March 29th, 2004
Did seem a tad harder than V3, I thought I was through with the business of it, then I went for the topout. Damn fun problem! I don't know about you Stewy but I was glad I had a pad with me.
5
hoss said on April 2nd, 2004
no stars for this route? Deserves at least two if you're going to give table top two stars. That thing is a pile compared to dreams
6
Ascentionist said on October 22nd, 2005
The base is a rubble pile. You'll probably have trouble sitting down for awhile if you fall off it without a pad. I missed three pads and some piled up fleece jackets trying the top out and it didn't feel too good. The top out is definitely the crux. FA was on a 27 degree January day with snow falling.
7
pigsteak said on September 1st, 2008
wow..too bad there are not more problems in the red like this.
8
CLIMBTRAD said on April 12th, 2010
very cool top out is killing me
9
Ascentionist said on February 13th, 2014
Wow, fourteen years went somewhere! I saw this one day when Pistol developer Erik Farley gave me a tour of some unpublished routes to the left. He was stoked to show me the routes and I just wanted to fondle the series of slippers that would become this problem. Soon after I returned with my twin Highlanders on a cool late-fall day. I rearranged the talus landing area slightly, palmed the holds for awhile, and finally turned around to leave without putting my shoes on or laying out my crash pads. When I realized it I immediately sat down, put on my shoes and from a sit start on sighted my way to the lip, where I found myself confronted with a very blank and sloping top out. I went back two more times but with spotters, took and handful of scary falls from the lip, and finally one day all alone I unlocked what ended up being a fairly simple top out sequence for the FA. Dreams. Later that year I married the girl of my dreams and today is her birthday. Dreams really do come true.