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COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Bitchmobile

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pistol Ridge

 Edge of Night

33.
+0
0 votes

Dreams V3 (Bouldering) *****

First Ascent: Chris Chaney in 2000
Length: 0ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Head about a 100 yards past Bitchmobile to a small ampitheather. This is the obvious problem is the on the slightly overhanging face of the free standing boulder.
Moves: Sidepulls
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.67 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (3 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

9 comments {add your own comments}
1
Wes said on September 10th, 2003
Best problem of it's grade in the RRG. Great moves to a cool topout.
2
Wicked Tribe said on September 10th, 2003
V3 is right on if you have it wired.
3
Stewy911 said on March 27th, 2004
i agree V3 if uhave it wired, but if u dont id say a bit harder. awesome boulder problem. you dont even need a pad, i didnt when i did it
4
hoss said on March 29th, 2004
Did seem a tad harder than V3, I thought I was through with the business of it, then I went for the topout. Damn fun problem! I don't know about you Stewy but I was glad I had a pad with me.
5
hoss said on April 2nd, 2004
no stars for this route? Deserves at least two if you're going to give table top two stars. That thing is a pile compared to dreams
6
Ascentionist said on October 22nd, 2005
The base is a rubble pile. You'll probably have trouble sitting down for awhile if you fall off it without a pad. I missed three pads and some piled up fleece jackets trying the top out and it didn't feel too good. The top out is definitely the crux. FA was on a 27 degree January day with snow falling.
7
pigsteak said on September 1st, 2008
wow..too bad there are not more problems in the red like this.
8
CLIMBTRAD said on April 12th, 2010
very cool top out is killing me
9
Ascentionist said on February 13th, 2014
Wow, fourteen years went somewhere! I saw this one day when Pistol developer Erik Farley gave me a tour of some unpublished routes to the left. He was stoked to show me the routes and I just wanted to fondle the series of slippers that would become this problem. Soon after I returned with my twin Highlanders on a cool late-fall day. I rearranged the talus landing area slightly, palmed the holds for awhile, and finally turned around to leave without putting my shoes on or laying out my crash pads. When I realized it I immediately sat down, put on my shoes and from a sit start on sighted my way to the lip, where I found myself confronted with a very blank and sloping top out. I went back two more times but with spotters, took and handful of scary falls from the lip, and finally one day all alone I unlocked what ended up being a fairly simple top out sequence for the FA. Dreams. Later that year I married the girl of my dreams and today is her birthday. Dreams really do come true.