Nautical Twilight

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

Rock Caddie


36.
+0
0 votes

Big Country 5.5 R (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 45ft
Bolts/Gear: 1/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Follow directions for Zen Master Dude to reach the ledge on which this route begins. From Nautical Twilight, traverse right along the ledge while looking for the single bolt which marks Big Country. When you locate the route, climb up above some trampled vegetation to clip the bolt then move left to a blunt arete. From there, head straight for the summit. To descend, rappel from the top of the route back to the ledge. Traverse back along the big ledge left to the chain anchors beneath Zen Master Dude. From there rappel to the ground with a 60m rope. You can also walk off the wall to the left and come out near Whip It Out.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.67 stars (12 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (7 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 5th, 2016

Submitted by: JB
Date: Dec 4th, 2009

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Wicked Tribe said on October 21st, 2003
I know Jeff has led this. I've got pictures of him on it.
2
Wicked Tribe said on October 21st, 2003
Also, just left of the blunt prow about halfway through the traverse is a route called 'Accidentally Kelly Street' which goes at 5.9+ R (very serious) FA: Dave Chenault, Chris Chaney, Jason Burton, Immediately right of the same blunt prow is the route 'Nautical Twilight' which goes at 5.8X (low crux is well protected).
3
Ascentionist said on November 22nd, 2005
There is a direct variation to Big Country which goes at 5.7X and ascends a plumb line directly under the crack at the summit. Can be easily top roped.
4
Jeff said on December 4th, 2009
I bet your second doesn't complain much JB.
5
CLIMBTRAD said on October 3rd, 2011
This would be a 4 or 5 star route if it wasnt for all the crappy face climbing just to get to the ledge for the start of the route. Also the last pitch Big Country is more like 60ft. Great fun!!
6
Ascentionist said on January 5th, 2016
1/5/16 photo is of first pitch variation "Too Little, Too Late" that goes at about 5.6. Climb the low angle flake into a rhodo thicket and vertically bushwhack to the first belay ledge of the previous four ledge routes. Avoids the gully and is actually not bad if the rhodo is pruned. FA: Unknown.