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Hum

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Oasis

 Manzanita

4.
+2
2 votes

Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mike Riegert, Neal Strickland
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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On the right side of the center face and left of a mossy crack system is a deceivingly steep face. Use bullet hole pockets and tracking for the feet to boulder the initial section, then finish on a final, steeper section.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Stays Dry:
Owner: Unknown
Steepness:
short (1) shady (1) fun (1) technical (1) sharp (1) pockets (1) beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.47 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (13 votes)

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Comments

12 comments {add your own comments}
1
Power2U said on January 6th, 2004
Very cool.. this one alone is worth the trip to this mini crag.
2
chriss said on March 2nd, 2006
very unique route! Def the best route at the crag, and as power2u said this climb is well worth the trip to the oasis.
3
pigsteak said on March 23rd, 2008
tape the tendons if yer weak. superb line.
4
said on May 24th, 2009
Really cool route, hard start on lots of pockets
5
caribe said on October 26th, 2009
Boulder on rope and sack up for the big move. I love this route!
6
ahab said on November 9th, 2009
a question: does everyone go out left to the pocket in order to gain the 2nd bolt or is it a looooong reach to the two finger bowling ball hold? i'm curious because there was chalk all over the pocket out left, but i'm not sure it felt 11d that way. considering the nature of this not so frequented crag, i expect this will not be answered immediately...i got nothing but time.
7
pawilkes said on November 10th, 2009
ahab - are you talking about after clipping the second bolt? As I recall going to the 2nd is a long move off a bad left hand crip or you can use a good pocket and get a really high right foot and go up left. After clipping the second bolt you need to get the lower of the two good right pockets as a side pull. Get your left foot way over to the big pocket, bump your feet to the left on sloper feet and reach big out left to the good/painful pocket. From there its a high right foot and then up the face on ok pockets/crimps. at least that is how art and i did it a few weeks ago.
8
ahab said on November 11th, 2009
no, i'm talking about going from the 1st bolt to the 2nd. what you described for that part sounds similar to what i did. after the 2nd bolt, it was pretty straight forward. it's a cool route for sure. i just didn't want my first at the grade to be tainted with an asterisk, but you know what they say, "if you gotta ask..."
9
caribe said on April 30th, 2010
Damn Caleb, I thought that it felt like 11d-12a with the far left pocket on route. This thing was hard on the hands. Phil and I took two sessions to put POWS behind us.
10
taurusclimber said on November 16th, 2011
Another great route at The Oasis.
11
Cromper said on March 11th, 2013
Definitely worth making the trip out here to climb this route. Don't hang a long draw on the anchor and cheat yourself out of the last few moves, super fun!
12
dustonian said on July 26th, 2013
Great route!