Gumbyland

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

I Didn't Know This Was The End


50.
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You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tuna Boy
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins just right of C Sharp or B Flat.
Originally bolted by Tuna Boy, then stripped. Rebolted by John Bronaugh in January, 2003.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.12 stars (75 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (76 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on March 14th, 2004
Be sure you have enough draws or a sling to legnthen th anchors or you will have some rope drag
2
Anonymous said on March 14th, 2004
Be sure you have enough draws or a sling to legnthen th anchors or you will have some rope drag
3
Roentgen Ray said on June 12th, 2004
Great LP.
4
Ascentionist said on October 13th, 2005
Historical note: Tuna Boy was also the stripper.
5
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
I love this route! Awesome heel hook at the crux and a great sit-down rest about 85% of the way up. Pure fun!
6
Captain Bad Beta said on October 2nd, 2006
Great climb... had a lot of fun on it. I would recomened this route for anyone looking for a nice 10b to climb for a lead project. Only problem with this route was the anchor placements. They are great for clipping but bad for rope drag. Avoid the rope drag with long slings... at leat 18" slings.
7
K-Dawg said on October 4th, 2006
good route, definitely low 10's. Crux is interesting but once you figure it out, the rest of the people in your group will run past it. Correct about the long slings for anchors.
8
endercore said on May 13th, 2007
crux was fun.
9
Lander said on February 15th, 2008
The anchor on this rig is a ROPE TWISTING MACHINE. It's best to rap off.
10
Buzz said on April 7th, 2008
Big move going to third bolt. Otherwise steady climbing.
11
ahab said on April 9th, 2008
i cannot tune a piano and i don't much like tuna fish, but this line made me sing soprano and had me longing for make a wish.
12
jenbongo said on September 30th, 2008
the rest of the 5.10 climbers in my group didn't run past it; it's still a hard move
13
StepLEFTskyline said on August 19th, 2009
Crux wasn't bad for me had more trouble at the finish, seemed very reacher for me. Maybe i just could figure out the move?
14
climb2core said on April 26th, 2015
Tuna boy have curly longish hair and a bit gregarious? I think I climbed with him one day at Pocket Wall... ?
15
climb2core said on March 14th, 2016
Rebolted 3/16 using SS glue-ins with FGI community funded hardware.
16
dustonian said on March 14th, 2016
Awesome work drillbillies, thanks!
17
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2016
Great job rebolting this one Patrick!
18
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2016
Not Patrick.
19
CLIMBTRAD said on March 31st, 2016
Yes.. I did rebolt this rig. It did look like someone tried to tighten the bolts back up, but we still found some very loose hangers and some loose bolts as Well.. It does still need some chain and or links at the anchors. The old anchors are still up along 28th new anchor bolts.
20
CLIMBTRAD said on March 31st, 2016
Sorry last sentence redo.. Old anchors still up along with new anchor bolts.. Just needs some chain and links. Also I was able to reuse some holes and patch the one's from the original and last rebolt job. I did try to stay very close to the original line. I thought it came out very nice and should last a very long time. Thanks to all those who donated to the bolt fund.. Patrick Miller
21
DrRockso said on March 31st, 2016
Thanks Patrick!
22
DrRockso said on November 20th, 2017
Removed the old anchor bolts, holes still need patched. Desperately needs chains or atleast another ql on each anchor. Currently a major rope twister.