Who is Who?

This route is located in the Southern Region at Shady Grove

Far From God


7.
+1
1 votes

Coming out Party 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: in 2004
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 25 feet right of Who is Who? just past an overhanging crack in a dihedral. Boulder out extremely steep rock to gain a large ledge. Climb the overhanging face past a few pods along the way.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
juggy (1) steep (1) confusing (1) pumpy (1) pockets (1) adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.64 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (26 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 8th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
vic said on July 9th, 2004
Yeah, nice route... but if you are expecting a 11d, you are in for a real surprise. More like 100 12b/c moves, with what I would agree to be 2 or 3 11d moves... suit yourself...
2
rhunt said on November 10th, 2004
very unique line for the Red...I highly recommend it. After you redpoint it please come back here and comment on what you think the rating is.
3
rhunt said on November 10th, 2004
very unique line for the Red, I highly recommend it, you have to use some trad skill to send this cool line. After you redpoint it please come back here and comment on what you think the rating is. Got to use
4
dbrayack said on November 25th, 2004
Definitely harder than Who is Who, though the rests are stellar. I really do not think that is it enough harder than Who is Who to warrant 12a though, but then maybe my body type just fits it well or I got lucky and found some adequate balance points.
5
dbrayack said on February 24th, 2005
It did feel hard, but I dont think that its hard enough to warrant 12a
6
Wes said on November 12th, 2005
Right on at .11d, cool climbing with great rests and some heady moves. Really fun.
7
512OW said on May 14th, 2007
Definitely 11d. Benchmark 11d, even. Really fun climbing... put your trad face on. Nice play on words, Shannon!!
8
Corona said on August 14th, 2007
Highly recommended. Really, really nice climbing with funky movement, and warrants a 12a grade before the first bolt (it's at least two grades harder than 'Crack The Whip'). Still needs to clean up a bit. Also, out of three people attempting the route, I witnessed one injury and two near injuries while the leader was going for the clip out the roof. Gauging the distance between ledging out and decking on rope stretch is an interesting experiment for the belayer there.
9
JR said on August 18th, 2007
I hate to quibble with you Corona but your last post said you hadn't climbed 12a and now you are sure this is 12a to the first bolt. I wonder what you would think of the 1st bolt on Stay the Hand.
10
JR said on August 18th, 2007
People getting hurt at The Coming Out Party? There is a gay pun in here somewhere.........
11
JR said on August 18th, 2007
People getting hurt at The Coming Out Party? There is a gay pun in here somewhere.........
12
512OW said on August 18th, 2007
Truthfully, its more like 11b before the first bolt. Since most use stick clips, call it 11a. The hard part is up higher, when you're pumped. If you don't get pumped, it won't be hard.
13
ray said on February 17th, 2008
I got skeeered!
14
pawilkes said on March 14th, 2009
no way is this thing 12a. i used 4 no hands rests on this thing and another practically no hands rest right before the anchors. lots of fun though, kinda weird getting into the second pod
15
Brentucky said on September 14th, 2010
I think the only thing that would be worse than having to climb this twice to send it would be having to climb it twice because you blew it at the anchors. This route skeeered me too!
16
krampus said on November 14th, 2010
heard that brentucky. I had to down climb from the anchor jug to rest a it before finishing it off. Fantastic climb though, I loved getting into and out the the pod.
17
climb2core said on April 9th, 2013
What was the skeeery part? Like Pawlkes said... Lots of rests take the bite out of this one.
18
Cromper said on May 7th, 2013
Best of the 11d's. Adventure climbin. At its finest!
19
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2013
1-pitch, rap-bolted "adventure" climbing?... you need to get out more
20
Cromper said on May 8th, 2013
Ya guess I'm not as cool as you, my bad.
21
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2013
sorry Cromper. i don't have any friends. thought being a dick would make me feel better.
22
symardila said on August 12th, 2015
Only scary thing on this climb is the horizontal crack in the rock right below the bolt everybody seems to be falling on (the one you clip at the no hands rest pod and climb out on a bulge)