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Coming out Party

This route is located in the Southern Region at Shady Grove

False Idol

0 votes

Far From God 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: in 2004
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Power out the start of Coming Out Party to gain a ledge. Then veer right and climb the sustained overhanging face to anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
fun (1) juggy (1) steep (1) long (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.28 stars (75 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (91 votes)

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Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Feb 8th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 29th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 9th, 2006


Sunshine said on June 2nd, 2004
It is called Far From God.
heavyc said on October 5th, 2004
similar in difficulty to Mercy the Huff
Lateralus said on October 28th, 2004
best route I got on at shady grove way way good!
Sunshine said on April 20th, 2005
There is no shared first bolt. I removed it. It was too low. What was I thinking?
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2005
Really cool jug holds!!!
Sunshine said on June 22nd, 2005
I think it is 11d if you use all the trick rests.
Lateralus said on July 19th, 2005
However that would imply you inherently knew where they all were, this route is not an .11d onsite
pigsteak said on March 19th, 2006
um, i onsighted this today, and let me assure you I am no 12b onsighter... nonetheless, a fun friendly climb where keeping the pump at bay is the only key to sending.
Green3 said on April 17th, 2006
most quality route on the wall, cleaner rock than most of shady grove
chill said on April 28th, 2008
12a at the very hardest...i mean come on you can rest just about anywhere on this route
512OW said on May 5th, 2008
"Not an 11d onsight". That is incredibly retarded. It implies that everyone has the same onsight skills... and I assure you this is not true.
camhead said on July 1st, 2008
I got on this route a few weeks ago when it was super hot, with super high humidity. It was my first attempt climbing at the Red in summer conditions. The route felt approximately 5.hard.
Horatio Felacio said on March 30th, 2009
yeah, it's pretty fucking retarded that this isn't an .11d onsight. apparently you don't climb the grade. a profusion of obvious kneebars is pretty hard to not see. .11c/ best. faggot.
Horatio Felacio said on April 3rd, 2009
this is a standard for .12b. hard for the grade.
512OW said on April 4th, 2009
You're right Ho. I was there yesterday, and all the kneebars broke off. Half the jugs too. 12b. c maybe.
kek-san said on May 18th, 2009
There is no way this route is 75ft. Closer to 90ft. Great route, pumpy.
said on September 20th, 2009
Ditto with pigsteak, first 12 onsite.......just keep the pump at bay....
climb2core said on October 18th, 2010
Seemed solid for .12b Not as hard as something like Cell Block 6, but I think more pumpy than Merccy. Didn't find all the knee bars, only real rest I got was at the first ledge. Have to agree with Kek san...No way is it is 75ft! Regardless of the grade or length, super fun!
SCIN said on April 22nd, 2011
Equipped with perma-draws (steel biners, etc.) on 4/17/11)
dustonian said on April 22nd, 2011
Awesome... thanks y'all!
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2011
5.12ow your so stupid words don't make sense.
der uber said on May 22nd, 2011
Rad climb. Long, pumpy, fun. Probably more than one no hands if you look for them. Probably easy for 12b.
climb2core said on November 28th, 2011
I take back my comments above. Got on this again, and after using 3 no hands rests it felt more like 11d. Perhaps my favorite jug haul in the Red.
taurusclimber said on July 9th, 2012
For me, this route was easier than Break the Scene.
Admiral Awkward Beta said on April 3rd, 2014
I put two Petzl draws at the top of Far From God for the day so that we didn't have to constantly lower off the fixed steel draw up top over the course of multiple people getting on the route. Because I'm weak and was tired I didn't get back up the route later to clean them - coming back two days later one was still there and the other gone - I'd love it if whoever took that draw could return it to me. I know that it's probably a long shot, but please PM me if you've picked it up. Thanks.
Anonymous said on November 10th, 2014
First permadraw on this is super sharp. Core shot and skinned 3 feet of my rope. Tried to pull it off but didn't have the right size wrench. I can replace it when I go back down in a couple weeks if nobody else gets it. All others looked good.
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2014
Pulled first perma.
Steve Tuttle said on September 15th, 2015
Anchors on this need tightened if anyone gets on it before I do again. Next bolt down is good.
Chiyram said on August 20th, 2018
Awesome route, but there isn't a hard move on the thing and the knee bars and no hands make it far easier than 12b.
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2019
Loose second bolt hangar. We need a rebolter to immediately address this safety hazard.
Anonymous said on May 21st, 2019
Or, you know.. bring a wrench and tighten it down?
Anonymous said on May 21st, 2019
I am happy to tighten said bolt for $100 dollars. No rebolter needed.
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2019
I would prefer a certified RRGCC rebolter for such a hazardous job, but I'll take a certified tightener if all of the certified rebolters are busy at drive by