False Idol

This route is located in the Southern Region at Shady Grove

Imagine There's No Heaven

0 votes

Irreverent C 5.12c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Shannon Stuart-Smith in 2004
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of the previous route is a hueco 25 feet up. This route begins just left of the hueco and meets up with a water groove toward the top.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.73 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (16 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Anonymous said on July 15th, 2005
This route has been sent and is open. It starts to the left of a large hueco; tentatively rated 5.12b/c. I am in the process of equipping a line to the right of the large hueco. Shannon
Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2006
how did this rig end up with 5 stars in the guide?? Sadly, it's a crumbly, 1-star, PILE
Shannon said on May 21st, 2007
Yeah, I agree, sadly the rock quality is not as good as you would want it, especially in the first half of the route. It does improve some as it steepens through the runals which is bullet hard, and why it got bolted. I think Ray was just being generous or very forgiving:)
pigsteak said on May 21st, 2007
actually, unless someone steps up, all routes start as 3 stars, and then get changed as folks rate them.
Horatio Felacio said on March 30th, 2009
you are a queer pigvommit. why do all routes start at 3 stars? i can look at this and truthfully tell you it is a black hole...it sucks all the stars.
ray said on November 16th, 2009
Ignore the haters. If you can get through the first few bolts of choss then you'll be rewarded with better stone and up high some of the coolest moves on the entire wall. Just step back and look at the top of this thing and you'll want to climb it. Don't boo hoo over a little dirt!
Yasmeen said on April 11th, 2011
I agree with Ray. The moves on this route are well worth the sandy beach after the first bolt. Just as good as Far From God and False Idol.
climb2core said on April 10th, 2013
Looks like a hold broke at the start, making it much harder. Unless someone glues something back on, this route will probably see very little traffic.
dustonian said on April 10th, 2013
I doubt anything new broke. The first move or two has always been burly as long as I remember anyway.
climb2core said on April 28th, 2014
um, i flashed this yesterday, and let me assure you I am no 12b/c flasher... nonetheless, a fun friendly climb where keeping the pump at bay is the only key to sending.
Brentucky said on April 28th, 2014
If you can climb near 12b or 12c then I see no reason why you can't get a little lucky and flash one every now and again. Nice work!
climb2core said on May 13th, 2014
Thanks 'Tucky. I should add that this route is quite excellent and has good rock quality with excellent movement. Better than FFG, for me.
dustonian said on June 25th, 2015
Super good route once you get past the sandy ledge