Long Wall Chimney

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

Route Less Traveled


6.
+1
1 votes

Vector Trouble 5.10a (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This route is located around the next corner from Long Wall Chimney. Look for an orange dihedral with a flaring crack at the top. Begin by climb the left of the two cracks to the ledge.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.18 stars (38 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (26 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Don McGlone said on January 16th, 2003
My first 10a trad lead.
2
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2003
A watched Hamsco hang all over this route!
3
Ascentionist said on November 21st, 2005
My favorite 5.10 crack.
4
Wolf said on June 12th, 2008
Great view, pretty good climbing.
5
hamsco said on June 12th, 2008
I cursed, fell, hung but beat my way to the top that time ;-)
6
pawilkes said on May 31st, 2009
really nice route. Exiting out the offwidth isn't too bad, just get high feet and work your way up and out.
7
jrathfon said on November 9th, 2009
very fun route, the beginning is stupid, either solo, back clean, or lower and clean, then come back to the ledge to do the real part of the climb. the dihedral is beautiful thin fingers with thoughtful moves. hit a good rest, place some pro at the start of the bombbay and either exit right on mossy, sandy, slopey face climbing, OR weasle your way up the not as hard as it looks OW/chimney/flare. fixed slings on a healthy tree for the anchor.
8
dustonian said on March 4th, 2011
This route is super good.
9
Cromper said on May 13th, 2012
The little squeeze section at the top of this climb is excellent! Throw your shoulders in there and pop around the corner and you will be rewarded with and amazing view at the anchors!
10
tania said on December 30th, 2012
Ditch your helmet if you don't want to be cussing through the chimney at the top. Also, description of anchor setup should be changed to rap from tree. Don't think there are rap anchors on this?
11
kman154 said on February 25th, 2013
This is a really fun route. I would recommend to a friend.
12
Willy said on April 22nd, 2013
Missed the part about starting in the left of the two cracks. Was able to link it very clean starting in the right one but I wouldn't recommend it without a #5 and #6. The slopey face climbing if you skip the OW at the top is spicy!
13
grigri said on August 2nd, 2014
left side in the chimney at top.
14
discoweasel said on April 6th, 2015
This climb is outstanding! While the crowds wait for Rock Wars, this gem sits waiting! Get on this! The final moves through the roof is more intimidating (and committing) than hard. Great finger crack that eats small gear. We added a new sling to back up the aging tat today...
15
taurusclimber said on November 21st, 2016
New, bright green sling and new quicklink placed on the anchor tree, 11/20/16.
16
taurusclimber said on July 4th, 2018
Cut out the sling I left on 11/20/16, replaced with dark green sling 7/4/18.