COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Long Wall Chimney

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

Route Less Traveled

1 votes

Vector Trouble 5.10a (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens in 1984
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route is located around the next corner from Long Wall Chimney. Look for an orange dihedral with a flaring crack at the top. Begin by climb the left of the two cracks to the ledge.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.23 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (27 votes)

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Submitted by: BubbyBoi
Date: Nov 19th, 2021

Submitted by: BubbyBoi
Date: Nov 19th, 2021

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


Don McGlone said on January 17th, 2003
My first 10a trad lead.
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2003
A watched Hamsco hang all over this route!
Ascentionist said on November 22nd, 2005
My favorite 5.10 crack.
Wolf said on June 12th, 2008
Great view, pretty good climbing.
hamsco said on June 12th, 2008
I cursed, fell, hung but beat my way to the top that time ;-)
pawilkes said on June 1st, 2009
really nice route. Exiting out the offwidth isn't too bad, just get high feet and work your way up and out.
jrathfon said on November 9th, 2009
very fun route, the beginning is stupid, either solo, back clean, or lower and clean, then come back to the ledge to do the real part of the climb. the dihedral is beautiful thin fingers with thoughtful moves. hit a good rest, place some pro at the start of the bombbay and either exit right on mossy, sandy, slopey face climbing, OR weasle your way up the not as hard as it looks OW/chimney/flare. fixed slings on a healthy tree for the anchor.
dustonian said on March 4th, 2011
This route is super good.
Cromper said on May 14th, 2012
The little squeeze section at the top of this climb is excellent! Throw your shoulders in there and pop around the corner and you will be rewarded with and amazing view at the anchors!
tania said on December 31st, 2012
Ditch your helmet if you don't want to be cussing through the chimney at the top. Also, description of anchor setup should be changed to rap from tree. Don't think there are rap anchors on this?
kman154 said on February 25th, 2013
This is a really fun route. I would recommend to a friend.
Willy said on April 22nd, 2013
Missed the part about starting in the left of the two cracks. Was able to link it very clean starting in the right one but I wouldn't recommend it without a #5 and #6. The slopey face climbing if you skip the OW at the top is spicy!
grigri said on August 2nd, 2014
left side in the chimney at top.
discoweasel said on April 6th, 2015
This climb is outstanding! While the crowds wait for Rock Wars, this gem sits waiting! Get on this! The final moves through the roof is more intimidating (and committing) than hard. Great finger crack that eats small gear. We added a new sling to back up the aging tat today...
taurusclimber said on November 21st, 2016
New, bright green sling and new quicklink placed on the anchor tree, 11/20/16.
taurusclimber said on July 5th, 2018
Cut out the sling I left on 11/20/16, replaced with dark green sling 7/4/18.
Anonymous said on August 5th, 2019
Missed the part about start on the left of the 2 cracks and started on the offwidth flake. Wouldn't recommend without 2 6's but definitely some commuting moves to avoid decking. Anybody else gone that way and have a clue of the grade? Felt really hard. Rest of the route is awesome.
DrRockso said on March 5th, 2021
Better climbing than Rock Wars, one of the best of the grade in the Red. Whoever installed the non-SS 3/8'' wedge anchor please know that the standard for the minimum standard for RRGs Corbin Sandstone is 1/2" diameter sleeve bolts or epoxy bolt.
BubbyBoi said on November 18th, 2021
Definitely recommend the direct offwidth start on this beauty! It’s much more engaging than the other start, no intermediate belay, rope drag or solo shenanigans, and not too burly with some actual OW technique. A #5 and #6 is all you need if you’re confident bumping them up. This alone is worth dragging them up to the cliff. Just be aware, the OW gets too wide for the #6 near the top. Commit to mild climbing past a tipped out 6 or bring something even bigger. Either way, it’s enough to zone you in for the sick climbing above you.
BubbyBoi said on November 25th, 2021
My sympathies to the poor soul who lost their old BD #5 in the OW start. As of yesterday, it’s pretty welded in there. Tried to kick it out of there for a couple minutes but gave up. There was a little wiggle room so it could eventually pop out after some serious effort. For now, enjoy the fixed gear everyone! Shame it had to be an old school piece. I’m sure it has a cool history, and this could be it’s final resting place.