Crack the Whip

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Playground

Balance Beam

0 votes

Octopus Tag 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ryan Adams in 2004
Length: 0ft
Gear: No large gear needed. (report bad anchors)

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On the right side of the main wall is this clean chimney. Climb the chimney to anchors.
Moves: Chimney
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.69 stars (48 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (43 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


vic said on June 3rd, 2004
Well, maybe I got the first ascent clean on this thing... worth doing, a lot of fun, but as far as great pros??? Come on John! I found a 15+ foot run out - and don't tell me I didn't have the gear... I was carrying just about everything up that thing.
Johnny said on June 3rd, 2004
Ryan Adams got the FA. I really don't remember any section without gear. Maybe the top of the chimney, but that's a ledge.
said on July 5th, 2004
the runout is short and totally casual - and not in the chimney. You CAN get gear in the chimney. Just be careful of the loose bowling ball sized chockstone in there if you want to avoid killing your belayer. Fun route!
Wes said on June 28th, 2005
Fun route. Didn't really notice any run outs - seemed like good gear the whole way.
ynot said on October 11th, 2005
Good 7. I didn't notice a runnout or a loose block but theres no need to pull on the blocks inside the chimney anyway. It's fun and easy but the finish was kinda funky. I may have missed something at the top though.
Josephine said on June 19th, 2007
my first trad lead!! lots of fun. i didn't run ANYTHING out ;-) got 3 pieces in the chimney - 4 on the lower flake and 2 on the upper flake. totally cool route
Lander said on November 26th, 2007
Really fun
danf26 said on March 19th, 2009
my first REAL trad. it was great!
dustonian said on June 14th, 2011
Nice route. The finishing flake would probably rip in a fall, so be careful where you put the gear up there & pull down, not out.
rjackson said on May 6th, 2012
Bring your rack for this one and while the sport climbers around you are cursing, you'll be grinning from ear to ear...