digitalgia

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Far Side

Second Nature


6.
+0
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Papa Love Jugs 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Nick Reuff in 2003
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Pure fun. Walk back down to the road and follow it for 100 feet to the right. Look for a north facing overhanging wall with a lightning bolt shaped feature. This route is the left most route on that section and follows a series of three huecos. Scramble up to an overhang to start.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4.58 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (40 votes)

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Submitted by: bbllaakke
Date: Oct 8th, 2018

Comments

1
rhunt said on September 14th, 2004
Super fun route!
2
JR said on November 23rd, 2004
Awsome. Reminds me of Hypocrite at the Zoo.
3
SCIN said on April 10th, 2005
Very cool line. Fun is a good description.
4
Dink Dink said on June 23rd, 2005
one of the most enjoyable climbs I've ever been on
5
tbwilsonky said on June 28th, 2005
Fantasticalicious...
6
Stewy911 said on August 31st, 2005
the crux at the top had a larger undercling on it that supposedly our buddy Rob broke. I got on it and it seems like 11d is about right for it maybe 12 a
7
Wes said on August 10th, 2006
Killer line. Hard start, easy middle, and a nice move at the end. Well worth the visit to the wall.
8
Anonymous said on August 13th, 2006
superspectacularific
9
italianwrestler125 said on July 13th, 2009
extremely entertaining. stellar route.
10
dbrayack said on November 18th, 2009
great line! totally got suckered into traversing left below the 2nd bolt....
11
Dman said on September 19th, 2010
one of my favorites great moves
12
Meadows said on May 6th, 2014
I'm not sure when it went in, but there is a power line running under these routes and all the way past the steep road going up. It actually hangs low on the road so no more driving up that way (if you could get by the big rut). Regardless, it looks as though a climber would fall right into the line if he/she were to fall.
13
dustonian said on May 6th, 2014
no way... that sucks. never got to climb here...
14
stix said on May 6th, 2014
there's always been a power line that seems like it could come into play for the climber on papa love jugs. maybe it is hanging lower now than it used too?
15
dustonian said on May 6th, 2014
guess that would make for an exciting whipper...
16
stix said on May 6th, 2014
seen a hand full of falls from where you think you may hit the line (the crux) and it hasn't been an issue. seems to look worse than it is, assuming the line is still where it's always been.
17
Meadows said on May 6th, 2014
That might be it - that it's lower than before. It's so low over the road that if you were to walk on the left side, you'd walk right into it.
18
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2014
There's a photo for comparison in the 2nd and 3rd editions...probably the 4th too, I would guess.