Sierra's Travels

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Washboard Wall

Spider Crux


2.
+0
0 votes

Heard It On NPR 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Barry Brolley, J.J. in 2004
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This adventure climb begins with a high first bolt left of Spider Crux. Climb through 65 feet of 5.9 on sometimes questionable holds to reach a ledge. Continue through the overhanging pocketed face for 35 feet to reach the anchors. This route is kind of like NPR because you have to wait a long time for something good. Use a 60 meter rope
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Cold Shuts-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.83 stars (40 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (28 votes)

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Comments

1
Caspian said on April 11th, 2005
This route is awesome...adventure sport climbing if there ever was such a thing
2
Green3 said on May 17th, 2005
this route is not 100 feet of overhanging jug haul, it is 70 feet of chossy 5.9 scrambling with 30 feet of 10d jug haul
3
J-Rock said on May 26th, 2005
Scrambling = 4th class. 5.9 = 5th Class.
4
weber said on September 6th, 2005
Long ways up there! I don't exactly agree with Green3. It is 50 feet of nice 5.9 climbing on solid rock, 15 feet through a softer vein of Corbin sandstone, and 35 feet of steeply overhanging, generously-pocketed solid rock. If you like wilderness climbing as opposed to squeeky clean gym-type walls, you'll love this route. Be sure to stick in a piece of pro at the bottom to protect until you reach that way-up-there first bolt! Rick
5
Stewy911 said on June 5th, 2006
very fun climb indeed. pretty easy climbing to the first bolt. if u did happen to put a piece a gear in I would suggest not falling on it because it might not hold.
6
K-Dawg said on August 29th, 2006
this was fun. Sooooo glad I got on this but I wouldn't bother wasting time placing gear before the first bolt. Huge holds up to the first bolt....actually up to the 6th bolt (past the first set of anchors anyways). I'll definetly get on this again.
7
endercore said on October 29th, 2006
yea i bet you'd still deck if you put a piece of pro under the first bolt, but the holds are so good you shouldn't be falling. This is a great route and the bottom 70 feet are totally worth it once you get to the overhanging pockets, because those rock. Consider wearing a helmet, at least for the belayer. There are lots of loose flakes and rocks sitting on the ledges. I nearly dropped an 40 pound rock on my belayer from the ledge that is above the belay anchors. It was just sitting right were you'd want to put some weight and the moment i touched it, it just slid. I clipped into the bolt and had my belayer get out of the way and i pushed it off. Keep an eye out for stuff like that as you climb this. I can't wait to get on it again.
8
TVA said on March 26th, 2008
more adventurous than most sport climbs. It really is fun and i recommend it.
9
Brentucky said on August 23rd, 2009
So many 5 star votes seem a little misleading to me. I didn't think most of the rock was solid except for the last bit which was a nice jug haul.
10
ahab said on August 24th, 2009
the other day on NPR i heard that this route is over graded, over rated and quite chossy, but still worthwhile. beware the wasps just above bolt 3. they are not climber friendly and don't care much for the radio.
11
Smiley said on July 6th, 2010
The high-gravity finish is the best part.
12
jkpugel said on November 24th, 2010
Adventure climbing is right, reached for a pocket up top and was greeted by a huge menacing wolf spider. Nonetheless, it was a fun and interesting route!
13
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2012
Interesting climb but be prepared for long runouts on questionable rock. I think the route would best be done as two pitches. Belaying from the ledge above the bottom overhang might relieve the extreme rope drag we experienced on the headwall at the top.
14
Chiyram said on March 16th, 2017
Run-outs aren't bad as you are barely doing 5th class between them. If this got a little more traffic it would stay pretty clean and it's definitely worth doing for an adventure. There is a set anchors at the ledge, but if you have some slings and unclip the first draw, rope drag is barely noticeable. If you really want to protect the the run-out, a .5 and .75 would probably work.
15
DrRockso said on April 12th, 2017
Very fun, adventure-y for Muir Valley. Rope drag linking it as one pitch wasn't bad using some longer draws and backcleaning the draw off the 1st pitch anchor. Alternatively bring a double length runner for this bolt.