Heard It On NPR

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Washboard Wall

Cordillera Rojo


3.
+0
0 votes

Spider Crux 5.10b (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: J.J., Barry Brolley, in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/Gear: Thin to Medium (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start under a small roof to gain this attractive, right-leaning hand and finger crack. Make a long move then continue up easier ground to a two-bolt anchor on the ledge. Belay, rappel off here, or continue up "Heard It On NPR".
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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3.2 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (5 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on July 5th, 2005
Hey, I Googled my old friend Barry Brolley and found this on page 1 so this MUST be a brilliant route! Tell him I said so and that I lost his email address. Is he still on the Witness Protection Program? [email protected]
2
michaelarmand said on August 2nd, 2010
How many bolts are on this? There appear to be mixed lines to the left and right of the crack...very confusing....
3
falling!!!! said on August 20th, 2010
When I did it it was not mixed and I do not remember adding any bolts. It is very thin though. If there are bolts that seem useful (while following the crack) I would use them. JJ
4
pixelface said on April 9th, 2012
I really enjoyed this route - for the most part. The first bolt is stupidly high, hence the mixed designation. Instead of placing gear we did tradmill, topped out, walked over and set up a top rop on Spider Crux and rapped down. This wasn't a great idea because a massive bulging ledge prevents rope from following the climber as the route shifts right. The only option is to continue straight up on loose rock. My belayer was literally dodging rock as I went up. This a fun route to lead, do not top rope this, also plan on rappelling down to avoid crucifying your rope.