Brushfire Fairytales

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Washboard Wall

Sticks and Stones


7.
+0
0 votes

Tradmill 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dave Hoyne, Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Rob Copeland in 2004
Length: 40ft
Gear: Gear: Medium to Large (report bad anchors)

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Climb obvious left-leaning ramp. Step around this obstacle then cruise up the left-leaning ramp over a small bulge. Clip the chain anchors on the left or continue into the cave. Build an anchor in the enormous cave and belay or traverse left along the ledge to "Spider Crux" anchors.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
beautiful (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.2 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (29 votes)

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Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Jan 3rd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Gravesrs said on July 22nd, 2004
This route is awesome! The first move felt more like 5.8- to me...but thats just me! Bring big cams! You can sqeeze BD CAMALOT 1, 2, 3 and 3.5's in that crack.
2
chriss said on October 4th, 2004
Good first trad lead. Once your on the left-leaning ramp it is an easy, comfortable climb to the anchors with great placements.
3
elcapitan1974 said on October 2nd, 2008
Fun route, great stop for kids. Consider pulling the lip before placing gear, it could be a drag.
4
ecp88 said on October 7th, 2008
fun start, relaxing finish
5
p0bray01 said on November 3rd, 2008
Ya know I let myself be intimidated by this route for a year and finally I said screw it and hopped on. The mental challenge was worse than the physical. Solid 5.7. Maybe a little easier after the bulge. Bring a #5 camalot if you got it. Also, don't place a piece without a loonnnnnggg runner before the overhang... ROPE DRAG HELL...
6
possum2082 said on July 12th, 2009
I have two words for everyone: "bee" careful! especially at the top.