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Dragon's Tail

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Practice Wall

Crescent Moon

1 votes

Dragon's Mouth 5.6 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Rick Weber in 2004
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted route begins in the first obvious chimney left of where the approach trail meets the wall. Stem on up to a ledge on the left then climb the slabby blunt arete to a small roof above another ledge. Make a tricky move back right to clip the anchors.
Moves: Chimney
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

2.92 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (49 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Feb 1st, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


weber said on July 28th, 2004
This is still a project that has been fully bolted but not yet cleaned as of 7/27/04. When it was scouted out, it looked like it might be a 5.8 or so. But the chimney rock surface is really too good -- it is very gritty. Plus, it flares gradually out toward the front. So, you can pick your most comfortable stemming width. This makes stemming a breeze instead of a challenge. Good practice, though, for beginners who need chimney experience.
K-Dawg said on October 13th, 2005
this was an easy and fun chimney. it needs some traffic to clear out the spider webs. if you can't rappel, I wouldn't suggest doing this route. there are still some edges that I wouldn't want my rope going over.
bryanboonern said on March 20th, 2006
Watch out. There is a tree that has fallen on this route. It is climbable but you could get worked if you fell on it. The anchors are also in a bad place. NO clip hold. I think they should be moved left a bit and down a few feet. Also look out for the run-outs. If you fall you are going to bounce a few times on they way down.
weber said on June 3rd, 2006
New Fixe Ring anchors were installed in a better location below the original anchors where there is a good clip hold and good clear line for the rope to follow for a rappel through the chimney. Also, another hanger bracket was bolted midway between the second and third hanger up from the base to eliminate the long runout there.
TSO said on June 12th, 2006
Anchors were are now in a great local, there is a dancefloor to stand on while you clip, no hands required.
bryanboonern said on July 3rd, 2006
Much improved with the added bolt and the lowered anchors. Good easy.
p0bray01 said on July 11th, 2006
Chimney's and sport go together like peanutbutter and banannas! However, this was a fun climb! Dirrttty! But fun! We wondered why the two sets of anchors were there! Good Climb! Gives you the adventure feel of trad!
Anonymous said on July 7th, 2007
a moist climb on a rainy day. an enormous pine tree fell 40ish feet to the left of the stage while we were there. our rope dragged the rock after i top roped the climb. how can i prevent this next time?
Cleveland said on December 2nd, 2007
What is the route to the second set of anchors?
Papatrad said on October 26th, 2008
Kinda dark and slippery but interesting none the less. Rick Weber said the higher anchors were the old ones (see above). I have used them to top-rope kids on Dragon's Tail, but they are a bit scary to get to.
cjdrover said on November 10th, 2008
Fun chimney, but the very top isn't worth doing. Stick to the lower anchors.
kharvey said on July 13th, 2009
Very dirty and wet, which made the climb a little unnerving. Fun moves otherwise, though.
ynp1 said on September 13th, 2011
This is a cool climb.
tequilamonster said on December 3rd, 2015
WAY better than Eureka.