Stretcherous

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Indy Wall

The Happy Fisherman


5.
+0
0 votes

Mid-Life Crisis 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2004
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Classic climb with crimps, edges, pinches and an exciting finale. Begins as a steep slab and finishes as an overhang with a huge hold. Getting to that mammoth jug is the interesting part.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.72 stars (68 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (76 votes)

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Comments

1
J-Rock said on July 23rd, 2004
What a cool move!
2
Stewy911 said on September 24th, 2004
That move at the top is hard when u are pumped. the only way i could figure out how to do it was throw for the jug off those two crimps. Is there an easier way or is that it!
3
Meadows said on October 4th, 2004
I agree with J-Rock - get your right foot up high and you've got it!
4
dbrayack said on March 17th, 2005
there's a hidden, yet softly ticked hold out left, go up to chalked crimp with right and hit the jug.
5
Wes said on May 31st, 2005
Best route on the wall.
6
travelinyouth said on June 20th, 2005
sick route! I didn't go off the ticked crimps though. well.... I crimped the one with my left and went off an other wise unused rolling crimp with my right; bomber jug though!! super fun route!
7
toddc said on December 4th, 2005
Great route.
8
512OW said on March 3rd, 2008
Really fun route. The odd bolt placement for the last and anchors lowers the quality for me a bit...
9
mwdillon said on April 2nd, 2008
I did not see it before but apparently the "mammoth jug" has broken off. Its still the biggest hold on the route though.
10
aberos said on April 23rd, 2008
This climb had a much easier finish before part of the massive finish jug broke off.
11
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2008
Yeah, I was witness to the removal of the jug. my buddy stuck it and it came down and almost hit me in the head. Actually, my brother was taking pictures and has him mid-fall looking at the hold still in his hand.
12
goodguy said on December 6th, 2008
Lets see the Picture already!
13
yarrrrbian said on March 15th, 2011
Odd bolt placement. Put all your draws on the right. A bit of a right hand stretch for the anchors. Cool climb though.
14
Lil Josh said on April 4th, 2011
The route is quite cruisey until the last move to the finishing jug which is pretty rough.
15
Mr_Funky_Shot said on March 18th, 2015
What a fun climb. There's somewhat of a rest right before the crux (last) move. But if you're pumped out by the time you get up there...it's not going to feel like a rest.
16
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
Some one upgraded the anchors to SS 5 piece but left one of the old open shut hangers. Needs to be removed. A hammer would probably work to pry/shear off the old bolt but grinder would be better.
17
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
A hammer won't work, ask me how I know? I tried after realizing my grinder battery was dead hanging at the anchors for this! If I get back that way again anytime soon I'll zip it off, in the meantime its not hurting anything.
18
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
Nah, definitely not hurting anything, but a bit of a mess. Just thought I'd post up as a reminder and in case anyone of the bolt fairies was out and about Muir this winter. If I get anywhere near MV, I can try to remember. I need to get back on this stupid climb. I keep not sending when I go at the end of my day. Ian
19
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
climb2core, knew this would somehow end up w/ you spraying your douchenozzle. You can't send it because rock climbing is not exempt from you sucking at life. By continuing ad infinitum, with no other options but total failure, does not make you persistent, rather, it indicates you subsist on your own bull shit which unfortunately will never satisfy your gigantic fragile ego.
20
climb2core said on December 16th, 2015
Did your mom not hold you at her teat when you were a babe? Let it out, then have a good cry.
21
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
Someones panties are in a bunch... maybe someone railed his belay bitch.
22
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
Judging from the impotent idle hate-spray on rrc, winter is here
23
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2015
ah winter a season to be thankful , climb2core's impotence for example. Not like their is much of scare, save for those cold nights at midget wrestling.
24
ray said on December 17th, 2015
Man I will never get rid of anonymous posting. This is so much more entertaining than Wastebook.
25
Anonymous said on December 17th, 2015
Apparently this route is aptly named...
26
Anonymous said on December 17th, 2015
climb a solitary soft 13a, start a developers bolting replacement fund with no oversight, get your ass handed to you on a muir valley climb (MUIR VALLEY)....yup, a Porsche, gold chains, and chest hair are next.....
27
Anonymous said on December 17th, 2015
it's so dumb that ppl still apply the blanket "soft" label to muir. there are so many climbs that aren't soft at all. some of the hardest mid-11's i've done anywhere at the red are at bibliothek, the boneyard, and slab city.
28
climb2core said on December 18th, 2015
Anon, hell yeah I am chuffer. My feelings are so, so hurt by you calling me out. The dig about that soft 13a really cut man. Kids take up my free cash so I probably won't have that Porsche for at least another 15 years. Never been a fan of the gold necklaces and I suck at growing chest hair. The FGI is a work in progress. Next year I'll be setting up a 501(c)3. I am sorry that the thousands of bolts that have been given to developers doesn't give you any assurance that the money raised has been put to good use. Since you are so concerned with the oversight of it, I will look forward to you volunteering for the board. But in the mean time, being such a skeptic, I am sure it isn't your money so you probably have nothing to worry about.
29
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2017
I replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts with glue-ins. The rock is pretty good but I had to move the second bolt up higher into a better layer of rock. It is a little left of the original bolt line, but does not create any extra drag or mess with the flow.
30
Anonymous said on August 13th, 2017
Old hanger had been removed from anchors.