Annie The Annihilator

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Indy Wall

Mid-Life Crisis


4.
-2
3 votes

Stretcherous 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Mark McGarvey in 2004
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start in a small hueco and crank through a tough boulder problem start then enjoy reachy technical 5.11 climbing to anchor. Slightly overhanging.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.54 stars (39 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (41 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
J-Rock said on July 23rd, 2004
Route is 5.11 if you traverse in from the left. Otherwise go big on two crimps and small feet to a nice edge.
2
SCIN said on August 23rd, 2004
Bad ass boulder problem to start with. Cool route. I thought harder than .12b especially with that problem in the beginning.
3
Anonymous said on February 16th, 2005
finally went after my umpteenth try. Thanks Rick and Liz. Everyone who is tall and can boulder hard should get on this route.
4
Anonymous said on February 27th, 2005
this route was so easy me and bi-layer got pumped out on this turd suace....
5
haas said on June 12th, 2005
I think this route is SWEEEEET! I love the boulder problem, and actually get on it a bunch just for the problem, then drop off at the ledge. If you have absolutely no endurance, but are a strong boulderer, then you'll have no problem with this one
6
automated said on July 28th, 2005
cool start. rest of the route is kinda lame. it felt nice flashing it tho [/me flexes].
7
chriss said on March 22nd, 2006
Fun boulder problem. Why is the first bolt so far to the left? If it was placed three feet to the right, you wouldn't swing into your belayer when you come off doing the initial boulder problem. Tall people can essentially skip the crux with a long reach off the small hueco, but there missing the best moves the route has to offer.
8
J-Rock said on March 23rd, 2006
Originally I started the route further left and called it a 5.11. Later I did the direct start and never bothered to move the bolt. I thought about moving it to the right, but I didn't want the quickdraw and/or rope to get in the way of the crux moves or holds either. Maybe it would be better without a bolt. Besides, that horizontal takes great gear.
9
JonesyA said on March 17th, 2014
Fun climb! If your going for the onsight, give those edges a little shade time!
10
samwisedhiman said on March 27th, 2014
tall and bouldery. don't go left, you're cheatin yourself outta a great problem.
11
Rx2Climb said on November 23rd, 2015
I got my first 5.12a and then almost flashed this the next day. Not sure how it could be 12c or even 12b. Although I have boulder up to V6 outside (with a lot of effort and tries). Anyways I really liked the route. Sweet long move to a Chicken Nugget hold after the second bolt.
12
DA.AnonymousPauseNot said on November 6th, 2016
Three hard moves to much easier climbing. Hard to give actual sport route grade. 12a could be a fair tick.
13
eduard said on December 26th, 2016
harder than Expresso (the most similar to this route I know of)