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Buddha Slept

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Dirty Old Men

0 votes

Immaculate Deception 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2004
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start from the ground or a ledge 10 ft up. Begin on two undercling crimps, make a long move to a two-finger pocket. Hang on through the thin crux then relax on the ledge before beginning the balancy and technical arete. Ride the arete and then step left to finish via a sensational overhanging jug-haul to an anchor under the roof.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

3.84 stars (90 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (99 votes)

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Submitted by: Cleatus
Date: Nov 10th, 2009

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 23rd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


J-Rock said on July 23rd, 2004
I recommend stick clipping the first bolt.
heavyc said on September 9th, 2004
I wonder if the two undercling crimps have broken a bit since the first ascent?
J-Rock said on September 9th, 2004
They were originally larger but were broken off while cleaning the route prior to the first ascent. Now they are two small crimps.
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2004
I thought this thing was harder than balls. The move to the first bolt is bouldery I thought and then getting to the third bolt if i remember right seemed impossible! but overall fun climbing. i maid it a 5.9 route when i grabbed the dang draws!
J-Rock said on November 11th, 2004
Yeah, it is a bouldery start for sure and feels a little desperate for the first few bolts. After the crux start there is a no hands rest on the ledge and the rest of the route is much easier.
J-Rock said on November 11th, 2004
Getting to the 3rd bolt I used a small flake feature to the right (maybe V3 or V4). We tried going up the arete on the left and the thin face to the left but got shut down.
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2005
The hollow, chossy middle section creeped me out, and I'm a lightweight. Otherwise, this route was a blast with a wide variety of climbing styles to offer (bouldery/balancy start, pocket pulling and a sweet arete). Fun.
usccabum1985 said on June 21st, 2005
good route but im a pussy and grabed a draw... but a fun time. fun middle section added spice;)
Power2U said on November 20th, 2005
Fun technical climb... really tall and enjoyable.
Yasmeen said on June 19th, 2006
Loved it. Heel-toe cams are very useful when going for the two-finger pocket.
lostone said on August 9th, 2006
Fun. Short V3 pocket problem to sit-down rest to 5.10- arete climbing. Probably not .12a, though. Try "There Goes the Neighborhood" (.11c) at Funk Rock City for a spectacular climb of comparable difficulty.
chouca said on October 31st, 2006
if you go to the pocket right of the first bolt it's actually easier. The sandy middle part wasn't much fun. But the top half - which is about 11a - made up for this.
bcombs said on March 13th, 2008
Instead of using the lower underclings I instead used a sidepull on the arete to the left and made a moderately long reach to the two finger pocket on the right.
Postman said on August 14th, 2009
Great route that offers little bit of everything; though I must admit that I am lucky guy with a long enough ape index to pull the opening moves.
Brentucky said on December 2nd, 2009
I came out here expecting a super soft 12a, but I thought this thing had a pretty damn hard start. It is definitely easier for ape index endowed folks, but you have to be pretty tall. I'm 5'10" and still didn't have enough reach for an official downgrade from me.
jdstic2 said on March 28th, 2010
the right undercling start is now gone. that is all
lena_chita said on April 19th, 2010
I tried this route two years ago, and again this year, and did not notice any holds breaking... underclings looked the same to me-- if anything broke off, it wasn't anything important. The first ~10 feet of this climb make for the hardest 5.12a I ever sent. Two years ago I was convinced that with 5'0" to work with, it won't ever happen. I was wrong, of course -- it wasn't so impossible, after all. But I reserve the right to whine about reachy moves on other routes in the future, until I send them. :)
dustonian said on April 19th, 2010
Nothing broke on the start. Maybe it's just height dependent. At 5'10" it's very soft for teh grade.
StepLEFTskyline said on April 19th, 2011
I need someone to show me the "soft" beta because at 5'10" I thought the start was awfully hard.
dustonian said on April 19th, 2011
Let's see... it was either a right or left heel-toe cam.
Travlinman said on October 9th, 2011
Very fun, felt it was pretty soft for the grade, but regardless it put a smile on my face. If your at the sanctuary and are looking to get on something fun and relaxing, get on this gem.
Willy said on April 23rd, 2012
My twelve!! Ok route, start isn't all that hard with the right beta
Willy said on September 5th, 2012
About time this thing got down graded. No way its a twelve if I was able to flash it
Anonymous said on September 7th, 2012
eat a fucking dick willy
der uber said on September 8th, 2012
Good, so we'll call it 11c now right?
Willy said on October 23rd, 2012
11c was my vote from the beginning. All these softies in Miur are making it too popular and giving people big heads. Sorry anonymous if this downgrade bruised your ego and you no longer feel good about your tiny pecker.
Chiyram said on September 10th, 2017
Route is pretty awesome, but 11d might be soft. Having said that, if you are too short to reach the pockets at the start from those underclings, this thing would be real hard. My shorter friend got on this and struggled to do the opening moves, then got on Triple Sec and had an easier time with those cruxes.