Blue Collar

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Conquistador of the Crumbly (a.k.a. S-crack)


16.
+0
0 votes

First Fall 5.8 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Karla Carandang, Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 60ft
Gear: Gear: Thin to Medium (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
A must do for the 5.9 trad leader. Start on blocky left-facing dihedral. Climb up then step left to hand crack. Continue through bulge to anchor above ledge.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.97 stars (39 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (40 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 23rd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
J-Rock said on July 23rd, 2004
2nd pitch is not recommended. A fall from the top-out resulted in a huge whipper and a broken ankle on the FA.
2
skychick said on August 23rd, 2004
This route is really cool! A few layback moves, a few jamming moves and a few sporty moves. Agreed--it is a must do!
3
dbrayack said on March 28th, 2005
Definitely not a 5.9, no where near as hard as africa, though comprable to arachnid? and definitly harder than roadside attaction.
4
dbrayack said on March 28th, 2005
Quite good though!
5
J-Rock said on April 5th, 2005
I thought it was harder than Africa. Karla swares that it is 5.8 though. I suppose it probably depends on how you climb the top part of it (First Fall).
6
dbrayack said on June 3rd, 2005
I dunno, feels like an 8 to me, but who knows...
7
J-Rock said on June 3rd, 2005
Honestly, I should probably climb it again because the only time I climbed it the route was still dirty, I was carrying a bolting kit, cleaning the gear, and my belayer had a broken ankle. She originally wanted to grade it 5.8, but several others who climbed it after us told us that it was solid 5.9 so we graded it 5.9 instead (based on the consensus).
8
squeezindlemmon said on June 20th, 2005
IT'S A FRIGGIN' 5.8!!! :)
9
michaelarmand said on November 13th, 2007
Great climb, and I thought it was a 5.9. Pulling the buldge at the end was not easy....
10
randomboulder said on October 19th, 2010
Very fun route. Foot hold broke off when my partner was cleaning it, so be careful.
11
Cromper said on August 28th, 2011
Awesome route! I was shitting my pants pulling the mantle.
12
Willy said on April 24th, 2012
Probly 5.7 to the last bit which makes it maybe 5.8+. Fun route!
13
Anonymous said on August 22nd, 2015
Amazing route, the top made this one of my favorites I've done at the red. I would grade this route solidly at 5.9- because of the section at the top before the anchors, but 5.8 works too. Great gear, fun climbing.