COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Melancholy Mechanics

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium


0 votes

ED 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson in 2004
Length: 50ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Left-facing dihedral with large holds. Poor gear at top. Step right after approx 50 ft to Fixe anchors above ledge.
Moves: Dihedral
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

3.33 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (36 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 6th, 2021

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


t bone said on July 19th, 2004
There now ring anchors on this climb.
J-Rock said on September 13th, 2004
Nice beginner trad route.
Anonymous said on November 23rd, 2004
Yes, an excellent route indeed! I wish it was twice as long. I didn't have any problem with the gear at top- bring your smallest cams and a #1tricam and its bomber all the way.
Smedley said on May 9th, 2005
Nice line.
ynot said on March 7th, 2006
Climbs a bit like Casual Viewing.
Ascentionist said on October 3rd, 2006
The chossy pockets down low give way to bulletproof rock quickly. This route tests your commitment level.
tunedvwgti said on July 27th, 2017
Enjoyed this route in the shade on a sunny 91° day. The route is pretty sustained 5.7, and the stances COULD be considered by some to be a little awkward to place gear. I agree it's similar to casual viewing, in that outs sustained and the stances are a little thin while placing gear. A really good route with varied movements IMO. Fun and rewarding for any 5.7 trad leader.
strawmyers said on July 6th, 2021
Extension is up, and can be used as a continuation of the sport line BG or trad line ED (clip the bolts or also protects with gear). See listing for KS. Enjoy!