Melancholy Mechanics

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

Augenblick


13.
+0
0 votes

ED 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson in 2004
Length: 50ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Left-facing dihedral with large holds. Poor gear at top. Step right after approx 50 ft to Fixe anchors above ledge.
Moves: Dihedral
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.33 stars (42 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (35 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
t bone said on July 19th, 2004
There now ring anchors on this climb.
2
J-Rock said on September 13th, 2004
Nice beginner trad route.
3
Anonymous said on November 23rd, 2004
Yes, an excellent route indeed! I wish it was twice as long. I didn't have any problem with the gear at top- bring your smallest cams and a #1tricam and its bomber all the way.
4
Smedley said on May 9th, 2005
Nice line.
5
ynot said on March 6th, 2006
Climbs a bit like Casual Viewing.
6
Ascentionist said on October 3rd, 2006
The chossy pockets down low give way to bulletproof rock quickly. This route tests your commitment level.
7
tunedvwgti said on July 26th, 2017
Enjoyed this route in the shade on a sunny 91° day. The route is pretty sustained 5.7, and the stances COULD be considered by some to be a little awkward to place gear. I agree it's similar to casual viewing, in that outs sustained and the stances are a little thin while placing gear. A really good route with varied movements IMO. Fun and rewarding for any 5.7 trad leader.