Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

5th Bolt Faith


3.
+3
3 votes

Plate Tectonics 5.10a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Rick & Liz Weber in 2004
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Route to right of Gettin� Lucky. Tricky start to enjoyable pumpy climbing on huge plates. Classic.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.36 stars (178 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (160 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: MikeWilkinson
Date: Apr 22nd, 2013

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: dkjazz
Date: Mar 2nd, 2010

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: Mar 24th, 2008

Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Sep 5th, 2006

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 28th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Zspider said on September 12th, 2004
Only mildly overhanging. A fun, well-bolted route. The route description is right. The start is a little tricky.
2
weber said on April 22nd, 2005
One of my favorites. Pumpy and reminds one a little of climbs in Red Rocks, NV (Panty Wall).
3
bhuff04 said on June 5th, 2005
A true classic of Muir. So much fun climbing on plates.
4
pigsteak said on June 20th, 2005
Truly a classic...one of the best at Muir...well done!
5
J-Rock said on August 25th, 2005
If 5.9 is your leading ability then I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt or having a good spotter. Also, please remove any cheat stones so that you do not fall on them and injure yourself.
6
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
Enjoyable route. The start was tricky and I was pumped by the end. Not what I thought it was going to be when I first looked at it, but that can be a good thing.
7
Captain Bad Beta said on October 1st, 2005
What a climb. Saw the huge plates and thought I'd warm up... ended up pumped. Probably the hardest "5.9" I've ever climbed... but so much fun. After a day of climbing, i found this route harder than most of the 10's around the corner.
8
merrick said on October 31st, 2005
best 5.9 in the red!!!!
9
peteypablo said on December 2nd, 2005
this thing kicked my ass, but i loved it cant wait to get the redpoint, and dont forget to look at the view
10
cephas said on May 26th, 2006
awesome, sustained, and fun!
11
Dhaulagiri said on May 31st, 2006
Fun route, rock quality is the only downside
12
endercore said on August 30th, 2006
certainly one of the toughest 5.9's i've done. It's pretty pumpy, and wasn't the warm up i thought it was going to be. If you get the chance, get on it!
13
bryanboonern said on October 2nd, 2006
I agree. I think it was harder than 59" drillbitch. A really fun route nontheless.
14
Josephine said on April 30th, 2007
paraplegic rating = A++ paraplegic approach rating = B- (lots of carrying the chair) area at the base is not very level - be careful the chair does not roll into the rhodos! will need a power belay to the first bolt and i think there's one other power belay section, but it's short.
15
Anonymous said on August 6th, 2007
agreed harder than 59" drillbitch
16
gdoliner said on October 29th, 2007
if you are shorter than about 5'11", I'd call the first couple moves hard V1, which would dictate a harder grade, but after that the route is solid 5.9, I agree with the 5.9+ grading. FUN FUN climb, the wall is so featured the possible variation of movement is infinite. My first time on it I think I used underclings for about 70% of the way.
17
panicbutn said on November 2nd, 2007
One of the best route (regardless of grade), put up at Muir Valley and the RRG in general. This route have a great flow, a couple of seemingly technical "5.10a moves" (as gdoliner alluded to) at the start, with a sustain, but enjoyable "5.9 series of moves" for the remainder. The "tricky start" is closer to the ground. Therefore, you can elect to stick clip the first bolt (or not), truly depends on your comfort zone and ability level. I second, J-Rock's comments on the use of cheat stones, try not to use it.
18
jlu said on November 19th, 2007
The first move makes it closer to 5.10b... rest is 5.9 with solid rock
19
Josephine said on March 17th, 2008
perhaps it's time to change the grade of this route. 27 people voted for 10a and only 9 voted for 9+. regardless of the grade i think this climb is super fun!
20
Anonymous said on March 18th, 2008
8+
21
Lander said on April 13th, 2008
the holds on the first half of this are not as good as you might think. i agree it feels harder than 59". 5.pumpy.
22
keegan540 said on June 13th, 2008
awesome route
23
rokjunki said on August 3rd, 2008
fun fun fun seems a little harder than 59" but maybe cause i did it after 59" idk
24
rjackson said on August 10th, 2008
Better and better the higher you go.
25
andrew.reed said on September 23rd, 2008
classic
26
kisor740 said on October 6th, 2008
this route is really fun and holds allot of the infamous new river jugs but we had to come back three times before we finally got to climb it and honestly wasn't worth it great route just over rated
27
jswan10 said on March 24th, 2009
this is an amazing plated route.
28
Koebs said on March 31st, 2009
Great route to run laps to build that endurance.
29
Redpoint said on July 17th, 2009
It sure is hard to find the jugs with all of that chalk everywhere.
30
Barnacle Ben said on September 8th, 2009
I didn't think the start was especially tricky, not even V1, but I'm 5'11" and I think that may have helped. Some of the shorter climbers I was with had to do an extra move but I think may have been the most efficient way to do it anyway. The real business of the route for me was fighting the pump. The holds keep getting better and better as you go, you just have to hang on. Very fun route.
31
jrathfon said on September 27th, 2009
bland sport climb, juggy, really greasy feet at the start are the crux. stays dry in pouring rain, something to do.
32
CbusShoe said on June 15th, 2011
Very good climb. The start is no issue if you're tall like me. Very enjoyable route that gets easier as you get more pumped
33
morganj8 said on August 1st, 2011
i accidentally posted the wrong picture for this route! Does anyone know how to delete photos? I'm just not seeing the option.
34
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2011
What, pray tell, is a cheat stone?
35
climb2core said on October 12th, 2011
A cheat stone is any jug that was not used by the FA. These are "off route" and deemed stone that is cheating. Hence the term "cheat stone".
36
jkpugel said on October 12th, 2011
climb2core, I'm not sure if you were being sarcastic but I believe the reference to cheat or cheater stones on this thread is about stacking rocks at the base of a route to skip tricky entry moves. The start is very doable for 5.10 but stick clipping the first bolt is a good choice especially if you're shaky at the grade.
37
climb2core said on October 12th, 2011
What, you didn't see the taped holds and feet?
38
nik said on May 8th, 2012
if you're bringing a crew of noobs to this wall, skip this route or prepare to pull them through the bottom moves. every time i come to this wall there's a line of people leaving a bunch of rubber on that slick foot and not moving too far upwards. not complaining...just trying to offer advice (have them do tall cool one, gettin lucky, or any of the 10a's around the corner). "what the hell am i supposed to use for a foot???" "it's soooo hard!!!" (etc.)
39
ryanthayer said on June 4th, 2012
Loved this climb. The huge plates and well placed bolts made me feel secure the whole route. It was also an extremely fun route!
40
Scorl said on May 20th, 2013
With regards to rain: during a few days of light rain, this route did stay dry except for the slick starting section and the first important jug or two. This meant that the start was even harder. Otherwise perfectly dry.
41
ddchil01 said on April 18th, 2017
this was the first 5.10 route I ever tried outside and I onsighted it! crazy fun route with amazing holds and moves :)
42
Anonymous said on December 18th, 2017
Anyone else so pumped at the last bolt that they had to use that sweet verticle arm slot for your left arm, making for an easy clip with your right? This thing magically appeared right when I needed it. It fit my arm perfectly at the bulk of my forearm. Feels weird not holding on to anything, but if you're locked in, it's great. I did have a few layers on in pretty cold temps, so not sure how bad it would be with sweaty skin directly in it. Fun route. Just shake out when you need and then keep moving and you'll make it to the chains without calling "TAKE!"
43
KhaoticKlimber said on June 24th, 2019
The ridiculously polished start of this thing really kills the fun of an otherwise stellar route. There's not one single good edge for the feet that doesn't feel like pure marble. For this reason, I can't recommend it. Skip it. There are a plethora of just as good, if not better, 10a's in the Red to do minus the mega crap start (like Bethel around the corner.)
44
AidClimber said on June 25th, 2019
Khaotic you should try some Limestone climbing ;)
45
KhaoticKlimber said on June 25th, 2019
Aid, knowing me, I'd probably hate it lol
46
Anonymous said on June 25th, 2019
Gym holds get cleaned regularly, id suggest staying there.
47
KhaoticKlimber said on June 26th, 2019
I wouldn't know anon. Never climbed in a gym ;)