The Bee's Business

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bruisebrothers Wall

Trundling Kentucky


7.
+1
1 votes

Sweet Jane 5.8- (Mixed) **

First Ascent: J.J., Jane Maurer in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 1/Thin/medium gear (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next right facing dihedral right of "Tomthievery".
Descent: Cable Anchor under roof.
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.74 stars (82 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8- (83 votes)

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Comments

1
Bashie said on April 15th, 2005
Dubious rock at the top, and what is with the bogus stack-o-washer anchors? Can't you afford a real anchor?
2
Ascentionist said on April 18th, 2005
We wondered the same thing.
3
john e aragon said on May 14th, 2005
too short
4
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
5.6
5
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2005
If you don't like the anchor, you have two choices. 1. replace it with an acceptable alternative, or 2. don't climb the route. Either way if you didn't pay for it or set it, then shut-the-hell-up.
6
powell.se said on August 22nd, 2006
I didn't like rapping down on one ring.
7
Wes said on August 23rd, 2006
But, you only had one 'biner, one rap device, and one rope, right? I like just one super strong lowering point.
8
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2006
Copperhead has a home under the rocks at the base.
9
Buzz said on April 6th, 2008
Rock is questionable in quite a few places. Hard to clip in to clean route.
10
jordancolburn said on June 8th, 2008
I second the copperhead having a home at the bottom, be really careful, didn't seem agressive but we walked near it in bare feet all day not knowing.
11
CLIMBTRAD said on October 16th, 2008
one cool move to clip one cool ring
12
rjackson said on December 9th, 2008
I wouldn't want to take a big fall on my placements down low but great stances, then you get a bolt. I thought the top half was worth it.
13
possum2082 said on April 26th, 2009
just commit to the final move and you're done.
14
heacocis said on March 22nd, 2010
At the landowner's request, a second bolt was added to this, approximately 20 feet from the ground. This will protect the very chossy section between the first horizontal section and the original bolt.
15
Kauz said on April 3rd, 2010
Did this completely on bolts. It wasn't hard, just a bit heady. Thats what I get for misreading the guidebook. Just thought I couldn't see the upper bolts from the ground. Definitely PG13 if you screw up like me, so don't blow the upper section.
16
ender52 said on May 6th, 2010
This climb is now fully bolted, as well as a new line to the left.
17
jenbongo said on October 26th, 2010
I'm not surprised it got bolted. My pro seemed sketchy. Then I clipped the 4th bolt of the 6 that are there now. Was this the original bolt?
18
Redpoint said on February 19th, 2011
I'm pretty sure this got completely bolted up because of Kauz. The way the story goes is that Rick saw someone climbing it with no trad gear and decided that to prevent the same thing from happening again, he would just bolt up the rest of it.
19
said on February 21st, 2011
whats the new line to the left of this???? fun...maybe 5.8
20
kevin614d said on May 2nd, 2011
This route is now fully bolted, and the anchors are solid. There is a little bit of loose rock about 15 ft from the anchors, but it is easily avoidable. Also do it as a trad lead, its more fun.
21
KevinWolf said on November 4th, 2012
Our guidebook had this route marked as trad only, but when we saw 'Send Me on My Way' was in use, we discovered the route was fully bolted for sport. Great cool-down at the end of the day. Enjoyable variety of holds, and a little extra challenge with the lie-back just before the anchor.
22
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2015
Ive probably climbed this route 16 times! Route of choice to teach new leaders on! ive taught 6 of my newbie friends how to lead on this route. It never leads me astray! Its defn more of a 5.7, very easy clipping points! Free soloed this sucker once out of necessity but that is another story for another day ;)