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Workin' for the Weekend

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bruisebrothers Wall

Critters on the Cliff

1 votes

Return of Manimal 5.10d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2004
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Moderate slab with big reaches to a giant roof at the top.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
fun (1) long (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.13 stars (127 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (121 votes)

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Submitted by: Myke Dronez
Date: Jan 12th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


dbrayack said on March 17th, 2005
10 bolts
Stewy911 said on April 5th, 2005
My favorite route on the wall! Amazing. Some how I managed to do alot of dead points. I guess that's why I got the name "Huck-leberry." Good times for sure.
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2005
Look out for loose rocks on the ledges!!!
Anonymous said on May 16th, 2005
This is an excellent climb! Way easier than other 11's at the Red...good intro for someone breaking into the grade.
TIT said on June 6th, 2005
fun climb as well, i would say it is definatly at least 10d, if not 11, i say that becasue 11 is right at my limit, and this climb was right there for me. the multiple roofs are very pumpy, the whole time i was leading this climb, i was thinking about a couple that i saw on this route last weekend, he lead up and backed off about 5 or 6 bolts up, at the crux, and then she went up and spanked it, NO PROBLEM. dont know how i got my fat butt up this one, but i guess i didnt want to get shown up by a girl!!!??? although most of the girls at the Red kick my ass, GIRL CLIMBERS ROCK!!!!! my wifes fav at Bruise brothers, she got to the top and said, all you need to do is climb like a GIRL!!!!!
toddc said on June 18th, 2005
Great route! My favorite at Muir so far. A few long draws will help with rope drag between the two roofs.
cassio598 said on June 20th, 2005
I think this is more difficult than Critters on the Cliff, but I didn't have the cojones to do the one move just above the 6th bolt, whereas I grew some on Critters. Get your feet over the roof and go for it, it's a great route.
tamara said on June 29th, 2005
Fire and Brimstone is much more difficult than this route.
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2005
This route is much more difficult than Fire and Brimstone.
jlu said on October 17th, 2005
most difficult of the four 5.10's on the route, and definitely the most fun!
merrick said on October 27th, 2005
i didn't think it was that challenging. just a few long moves. 10c or b. way easier than the 10s at roadside.
Anonymous said on March 8th, 2006
Great route! Harder than Critters on the Cliff (11.a). You must do it if you're in the area. bring a couple longer draws/slings.
Anonymous said on March 21st, 2006
A few fun moves but a fuckin choss pile at the top. If you put a route up, try cleaning it. The .11 next to it has loose crap all over too. Not good.
rdpoints said on March 21st, 2006
Yeah, crappy anchor placement too. I would've put the anchors lower and skipped the last moves to that shit ledge (loose stuff all over).
allah said on March 22nd, 2006
If there is loose rock on a climb then clean it dont get on the computer and bitch about it. It isnt hard to hang on a bolt tell everyone down low to watch out and then pull the blocks off Then you can say that you put in a little work on the routes it might take 5 extra min.
J-Rock said on March 22nd, 2006
Well said Allah! Thank you.
t bone said on March 22nd, 2006
I cleaned the ledge off really good when the route was bolted. believe or not I really dont care. You do not have to climb it!
rdpoints said on April 26th, 2006
Yeah, good comment allah, have you been up to the ledge? It's not like you can just "clean it", the whole ledge band is choss. And, if I could've cleaned it I wouldhave, but I believe that's the responsibilty of the bolter. And that goes for the the other couple climbs to the right of this one.....loose shit and poor bolt placements. And if t bone put these climbs up, his last comment above says alot.
squeezindlemmon said on April 27th, 2006
Responsibility of the bolter?!? ::falls over chair from laughing so hard::
J-Rock said on April 27th, 2006
It is people like rdpoints who make complaining comments that take the fun out of putting up routes and a BIG reason why I no longer do this. Why? Because it just isn't fun anymore. Your pansy ass would be whining and whimpering if you ever did much multi-pitch trad, or desert towers, or mountaineering. It's rock climbing. Rock climbing (even sport climbing) is inherently dangerous. Grow some balls or shut the fuck up. If loose rock and choss bothers you so much then perhaps you should go climbing somewhere else or try another sport like golf.
rdpoints said on April 28th, 2006
Since J-rock knows me SO well, knows how long I've been climbing and all the routes I've done, I'll just say this: When routes are put up, they are a reflection of bolter, If they're not cleaned and have loose rock on them, it tells me that the bolter didn't really care. I don' t expect perfection from anybody (i know newer routes can have loose rock on them), and I do appreciate the hard work that is put into putting up routes. That being said, there is a ton of loose rock in that band ledge at the top, and the anchor placement has the rope scraping on the ledge. If I'm a pansy ass for pointing that be it.
squeezindlemmon said on April 28th, 2006
Rdpoints, whose standards should we follow? Your idea of a route that still needs to be cleaned could be someone's idea of an oh-my-gawd-it's-so-freakin'-clean route. Who gets to decide when we stop cleaning and brushing and start bolting another route so you can have more lines to climb?
rdpoints said on April 28th, 2006
Well, I'd say looking at the comments for this route, 5 different people (including me) have made comments about the loose rock or the anchor placements (not including the 3 other people I was with the day we did this climb). Again, I don't expect any climb to be perfect..... but I'd say a thoughtful effort by a bolter is very obvious.
endercore said on May 8th, 2006
bring extenders... rope drag gets really nasty other wise. loved it tho!
marathonmedic said on June 5th, 2006
I trundled those "loose" rocks. NONE of them were about to fail anytime in the next 20 years of people using them. My firm belief is that the bolter knew they were loose, but not loose enough to fail.
gladhander said on June 20th, 2006
What a fantastic climb! So many subtle, balancy moves and each is rewarded with a nice wrap-around hold. As far as the loose rock, does it make sense that someone would bolt a route so well and then not clean it? Obviously, it's just a matter of natural degradation of a soft layer in the rock. That said, it's something the climber should be aware of as he or she gets on the roof.
Yasmeen said on June 21st, 2006
Man, someone should really clean all the loose rock from the upper level of Fortress. Every time I go up there, I have a terrible time on the routes because of the loose rock on the ledge. Whoever put up those lines on the upper level of Fortress but neglected their duty to clean the ledge totally sucks as a first ascentionist.
SCIN said on June 22nd, 2006
I'm so pissed because when I got to the anchors of this route there was nobody there to wipe my ass, feed me grapes, and tell me what a great job I did. It is fully the responsibility of the bolter to provide these things.
merrick said on June 23rd, 2006
I forgot to say how fun the route was. it was fun despite the grade and despite the looseness. it was fun and awesome. and it should be climbed and climbed alot.
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
@ rdpoints: I'm sorry, what did you say? All I heard was "Waaaaaaaahhhhh!!!" I dunno. I found this route to be fairly clean. Once I had my servants climb up there for me and sweep all the choss away I climbed it just fine. In all seriousness, this is a fun climb. Sustained and pumpy.
Texas Pete said on December 19th, 2006
What loose rock? If you think the rock on that climb is loose you haven't climbed much. Do the gene pool a favor and don't breed rdpoints ........... and go back to the gym where you belong. I thoroughly enjoy all the routes on this wall and found nothing out of the ordinary as far as loose rock goes.
Wes said on January 2nd, 2007
Fun moves for the first 2/3's of the route make doing the last few bolts of not-so-good rock climbing worthwhile.
heidiramma said on June 3rd, 2007
damn, what a warm-up
Josephine said on June 13th, 2007
i thought this was a very exciting climb. it was just above my ability but if i tired the move a couple times, i could figure out a way to make the move after shaking out the pump. gladhander is right about being rewarded with jugs after the hard moves. fun stuff!
Josephine said on June 13th, 2007
ps - wasps nest forming around the 3rd bolt (i think it was the 3rd) it's to the right. if you think about it - bring some wasp spray.
ahab said on March 10th, 2008
Hey now, those loose rocks on the ledge are good for trundling icicles hanging above the routes next door. Leave them be says I!
Hayleywatts said on June 1st, 2008
Not very good.
shortrope said on October 29th, 2009
Great route. Agree about the end being no so stellar but plenty of jugs after the hard moves. A fun as hell climb with a great view from the top.
LeGrecian said on May 18th, 2010
SCIN... hahahahaha.
Rooky said on December 4th, 2011
Well if you see blood near the top it's mine. "Like somebody shot a deer up here" (quote by Rollo). My hardest lead attempt. I'll get it some day. I loved this route.
rjackson said on February 26th, 2012
Fun, just plain fun...
Spikeddem said on April 1st, 2012
Multiple votes for 11c...classic hahah
Rooky said on May 12th, 2013
Ha finally got it...and blood free :)
[email protected] said on May 18th, 2015
Got the onsight! thought it was soooo freaking fun! big fun reaches! not too pumpy! dont rest before pulling the roof though, it does not really recharge jammed under there
DrRockso said on October 25th, 2017
Anchor updated to SS Glue-ins.
Jared420_69 said on July 30th, 2020
STEP ASIDE OMAHA BEACH this is the true king line of the red. Solid at the grade as well