Virgin Bolter Tag Team

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunnyside

Weed Eater


9.
+0
0 votes

Machete 5.10b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: J.J., Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Climbs pocketed face to a small alcove. Shake out and fight the pump up and over a few roofs.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cable Anchor
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.82 stars (102 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (87 votes)

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Submitted by: Myke Dronez
Date: Jan 12th, 2008

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 21st, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on September 14th, 2004
Great climbing the whole way!
2
weeds19 said on October 15th, 2004
Great climb, a little dirty on the small ledges. The top roof section is a lot of fun, with one loong move... unless I missed something (which may well have happened)
3
John E said on April 11th, 2005
A fun route. The top looked like it'llharder than it re
4
John E said on April 11th, 2005
A fun route. The top looked like it would be harder than it ended up being.
5
Anonymous said on May 16th, 2005
Great causal climbing to some over-hanging ledges! Really good...I yarded all over that final 'loose' block and it seemed solid...Is that the way everyone else is pulling the move to the final ledge?
6
Spragwa said on May 29th, 2005
I loved the route. I avoided the loose block, which is cracking all over, by going left. I was too scared to even put a foot on it. It was a fun move!
7
pigsteak said on July 10th, 2005
ok route...too sharp at bottom..too dirty up top.
8
J-Rock said on July 18th, 2005
If climbing this on TR be sure to leave a few of the top draws clipped so that you don't swing into the trees if you take a fall.
9
krabikrabi said on October 1st, 2005
On the last ledge before the chains, you may be tempted to grab the large block at your face. Resist the temptation: it's detached. Your belayer will thank you--for keeping the four-hundred pound block out of her grill...
10
Feanor007 said on March 27th, 2006
first .10, much fun
11
caribe said on May 22nd, 2006
This route is a lot easier than it looked. Use it for a warm up instead of the 5.9 at the right.
12
Feanor007 said on May 27th, 2006
the block on the top ledge is gone now, climber it this weekend and when i stuck my head over the ledge, it wasn't there.
13
512OW said on June 4th, 2007
Freakin fantastic. One of the best easy 10s in the Red...
14
dbarless said on October 17th, 2007
Yeah what Kris said!!!! Really easy pocket pulling to a steep section that ends way to soon! Get in a nice heel/toe cam for the last clip. One of the best .10b climbs around...
15
Buzz said on April 5th, 2008
Great route. As everyone has said toughest manuver is at the top. BTW the big rock is gone.
16
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Great route!!! Super fun. My first .10 on lead and was SOO much fun. Pockets and great holds all over, almost to the point of confusion. Was pretty pumped by the time I got to the last ledge. Overall a sweet route and a great example of what the Red is all about in MHO.
17
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Great climb. The 3 routes on this pocketed wall are all really good. Feanor007, you must be talking about a different rock, because when I climbed it there was still a large, detached belayer-killer on one of those ledges.
18
Wolf said on June 5th, 2008
And that death block is now gone. Fun Route.
19
Dman said on March 14th, 2009
awesome fun route great 4 a rainy day
20
jenbongo said on April 13th, 2009
there's a mostly detached ledge just under the fifth bolt that is the concern now; not using it makes getting to the 6th bolt a little harder, and I think that's the crux anyway
21
bsuclimb11 said on April 28th, 2009
This was a great climb, very pumpy so rest when you can. Final bulge looks difficult, just grab hold and press out. fun all the way to the top.
22
climb2core said on May 16th, 2011
Fun route. Easy pocket pull to a series of juggy roof moves. Crux is harder for the shorties. I pulled on, tapped on, and hit the ledge with an X on it. It seemed solid, no hollow sounds, and did not flex. I stood on it to do the crux move as well. However I did make sure to warn the belayer and anyone in area to not be directly under just in case. Also, there was like a 5.7 variant of this climb that shared the first 3 bolts or so and then went left to another bolt and then chains. That variation was a good one for aspiring leaders.
23
nik said on May 8th, 2012
one of my favorite easy 10s! second caribe's advice to warmup on this instead of the 9 (even if you're here to do this route). awesome roof pulling.
24
BlondeWolf said on December 13th, 2012
Really, Really enjoyed this climb! One of my favs now. Of course it doesn't hurt that I onsighted it. :) It might not be a fav if I had struggled with the route.
25
dustonian said on February 8th, 2013
The x-marked death block is flexing big time and seems like an accident waiting to happen. Tread lightly!
26
Rassclaat said on December 5th, 2015
Really fun route. There are good rests, so be sure to utilize them before you work on the finish. Gives you a good pump, and has a really good sequence to finish. Just throw yourself on the ledge clip into the anchors and let out a roar.