Machete

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunnyside

I Think It Goes All The Way


10.
+0
0 votes

Weed Eater 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: David Fromke, J.J. in 2004
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next sport route to the right of "Machete". Climb slabby pockets to steep ledges to a steep finish on crimpy pockets.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.21 stars (66 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (59 votes)

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Submitted by: gladhander
Date: May 22nd, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on September 14th, 2004
Amazing route! Technical and pumpy with several cruxes.
2
Caspian said on April 11th, 2005
Very unique....much fun
3
Sco Bro said on May 5th, 2005
What a beautiful and unusual climb. If you're looking there are no less than 6 rests after the fourth bolt: sit downs double knee bar, hand jams, arm bars. In between the rests are some wild ass moves, a true beauty.
4
pigsteak said on September 19th, 2005
no doubt..just got on this one saturday.....climbs way better than I thought it looked...nice eye from the equippers. a sweet route of unusual moves for the Red.
5
Meadows said on September 19th, 2005
FUN! FUN! FUN!
6
ray said on October 10th, 2005
Kind of like The Return of Chris Snyder's little brother. Excellent line.
7
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
unusual and fun climb... cool ending with 3 successive ledges
8
caribe said on May 22nd, 2006
The 3 ledges I found to be very challenging. It is difficult to maintain continuity. They are necessary interruptions in the climb. Each one for me was an obstacle that I had to enter and reach around for blind holds. Save a little something for the finish. It is a bit overhung although the holds are pretty good. I liked the climb. Cleaning it was a biach!
9
Saxman said on June 5th, 2006
I loved this climb. Incredible lay down rest complete with headrest on one of the ledges.
10
512OW said on June 4th, 2007
Great route. Doesn't get a whole lot better at the grade...
11
latch said on June 8th, 2007
Wow! One of the few routes I will roll in rat shit to finish.
12
pkelly said on November 10th, 2007
my first 11, the last 15ft almost did me in. I went for a nice ride wile cleaning also. Super Sweet
13
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Awesome route. Those ledges are just amazing.
14
ahab said on December 15th, 2008
this thing just kicks ass. good for practicing various types of rests.
15
nik said on November 11th, 2012
awesome route. negotiating (and resting on) the ledges is so much fun.