Cybersex

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Inner Sanctum

Consenting Adult


11.
+0
0 votes

Psyberpunk 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Greg Martin, Brian Boyd in 2004
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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60 ft right of "Cosmic Trigger", past "Cybersex" and a large boulder/flake against the main wall, then up a small ledge. Last route before Stadium Area. Mostly jugs to two crimpy face sections to exit jugs.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
vertical (1) fun (1) technical (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.12 stars (59 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (65 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Nov 14th, 2006

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 31st, 2006

Comments

1
Huggybone said on May 4th, 2005
THis route is better than it looks. VERY crimpy crux.
2
bhuff04 said on June 4th, 2005
The crux is mildy difficult to read... just crimp the hell out of it. Awesome route
3
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2005
Merry Crimpster Satan Claws!
4
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2005
I would give it a 5.11 b/c rating due to the sustained crimpy crux. Fantastic route!
5
Yasmeen said on June 18th, 2006
Really cool find -- sustained crimpfest with some techie stuff up top.
6
anticlmber said on August 15th, 2007
super good!!
7
JR said on January 8th, 2008
This route has increased in quality over the last couple of years. Great face climbing. More than a one trick pony.
8
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2008
Really fun route. If you like crimps.
9
michaelarmand said on September 5th, 2009
Classic technical climbing....
10
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2009
11c seems a bit much, wasn't it 11a in the 2nd edition?
11
sklag said on March 17th, 2010
So, If I sent this and it is 11a in the guide book, how does this climb get upgraded? I mean it wasn't super easy, but I did use a small hueco with a fairly large, and committing balance to get to it in order to move and stay left at the top of the 4th bolt. I'm curious if I was off route. Made all the clips though...
12
ReachHigh said on May 21st, 2010
I really liked the route but I agree with the original guide book grade. 5 stars!
13
dustonian said on May 21st, 2010
Hope you like poison ivy as much as you liked this route!
14
Jeff said on June 13th, 2011
Shade and crispy weather make it more fun.
15
dustonian said on November 6th, 2011
I take it back... phenomenal face climbing!
16
goodtimes said on September 1st, 2013
Fun climb. Watch out for that Ivy by the start
17
Ti-Bum said on April 30th, 2016
Definitely 11c if you go right at the crux. 11b at the most if you go left! Super cool climb!
18
tazunemono said on August 14th, 2016
Some nice iron oxide pulling gets you to the first crux, which is around V2/.11a. Climbing another bolt gets you to the business, a tricky move off very thin crimps to two pockets with good feet. Slightly better holds get you to the last bolt, where a jug awaits before you run it out to the chains on easy ground. I left a couple carabiners on the end of the chains to make it easier for the next person :) 5.11c because harder, thinner and more sustained than Random Precision which goes at 5.11b.
19
Anonymous said on August 14th, 2016
Don't leave gear on routes at Muir Valley without permission. Any fixed gear should be steel. P.S. Thanks for the biners :)