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Five Easy Pieces

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

 Hot September

14.
+2
2 votes

Autumn 5.9- (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Tod Anderson in 1984
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route is located about 200 feet right of Five Easy Pieces near a huge boulder. The crack ascends the flake on the left face of the wall in front of the boulder.
One of the best hand cracks in the Red.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
hands (2) classic (2) fun (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.81 stars (112 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (85 votes)

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Comments

19 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on February 21st, 2005
Whos ass is that?
2
Paul3eb said on April 5th, 2005
great climb with solid gear and a fun, well protected crux. should be on everyone's list
3
krampus said on December 26th, 2006
Be sure to to save some #3 cams for after the crux, cus its a runout to the anchors otherwise.
4
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
A fantastic hand crack, fun runout to the anchors after the crux...A must-do!!
5
ahab said on April 3rd, 2008
as your attorney, i advise you to listen to krampus & take some #3 cams for after the crux.
6
rjackson said on May 25th, 2008
Wow.
7
Dman said on December 15th, 2008
nice route ran out of #3's at the top but still sent with arunout and a #4 before the anchors
8
rrgclimber said on December 15th, 2008
one of the best 5.9 in the gorge would reccomend for any 5.9 trad leader
9
Zeubanks said on January 7th, 2009
I definitely didn't have any gear big enough remaining for the top section. I guess I should've read the comments on here first.
10
Peng said on April 26th, 2009
Need just one BD number 3 after crux. Nobody who can get through the crux will fall after that. Super fun route. Straight forward protection.
11
pedro_sandchez said on April 27th, 2009
I've been planning to climb this for over a month but never managed to get out there. It was my first 5.9 trad climb and totally worth the anticipation. Beautiful line!
12
NateS GR said on October 27th, 2009
The top part is awesome. Perfect hand jams.
13
gheib said on May 10th, 2010
I agree on the #3 for right after the crux, but it eased up a lot after that I only recommend one placement after the crux and just shoot to the anchors. If you can do the crux you don't need to place but one more piece afterwards. Beautiful climb and the crux is super protected and has an amazing rest ledge before you commit.
14
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2014
GEAR/BETA SPOILER (if you want it) I wanted to post something since this was my first 5.9 trad lead and gear/beta information would have been nice since I had to get lowered down at the ledge to get more gear in order to do the crux/top half safely. A standard rack with no doubles won't get you to the top safely unless you like running it out. Assuming you have nuts and cams only, forget all your small nuts. Bring gear from BD 0.4 - 3 with triples in 2 and doubles in 3. Save two #2's for the overhanging crux and a number 3 for after the top part of the climb. Get as high as you can on those little ledges above the big ledge/rest, plug a high #2, hand and foot jam like a bad ass on the overhang, reach for a big jug just over the overhang and plug another #2 below the jug. That will make you feel good when getting over the over hang before plugging a #3 on your way up to the chains. The hand and foot jamming is super solid, just make some tape gloves before hand so you don't bloody up the route like I did. I hope this helps!
15
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2014
lol
16
GaryO said on September 28th, 2014
I find lay-backing the crux easier than jamming it. Obviously, some prefer jamming. Climb it twice and try both!
17
campby said on July 7th, 2015
Maybe I'm being blasphemous... But, I dare say I like this more than rock wars. Awesome handcrack that alternates between lay backs and jams.
18
david.j.tighe said on September 10th, 2015
I also found it less challenging to layback the crux, but it's also less secure and harder to place gear that way.
19
cottonej said on September 15th, 2015
Has anyone here gone farther up the crack past the anchors?