Atlas Shrugged

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Buddha Slept


10.
+5
5 votes

Triple Sec (a.k.a. 50 Bucks) 5.12d (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Andrew McDonald, Peter Maroni, Greg Martin, Brian Boyd in 2004
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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In between Jesus Wept and Immaculate Deception is a beautifully blank yellow-and-black face with small pockets and a few crimps visible. No-hands-rest breaks up the climb after bouldery crux. Good face climbing to deceptive crux near top of wall.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.89 stars (45 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (46 votes)

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Comments

1
J-Rock said on April 5th, 2005
Wow! That thing sure is pretty! If I could ever climb 5.13 then this would be the one to do!
2
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2005
Also known as 50 Bucks
3
Anonymous said on May 21st, 2005
best one on the cliff
4
Power2U said on May 22nd, 2005
Gorge classic!
5
Power2U said on May 26th, 2005
If you stand in the hueco to the right of the 5th bolt the SCEC will paddle your @$$, and to insult to injury you only get credit for 12d!
6
Anonymous said on December 27th, 2005
when will the closure be removed, ever?
7
J-Rock said on January 7th, 2006
It is open. Enjoy.
8
J-Rock said on January 7th, 2006
Please let us know if there is anything that needs repaired or retightened and we will do so.
9
Andrew said on April 30th, 2006
Any guess on when this route will get fixed, Its just to pretty to sit there. I would be happy to help, but I live in NC.
10
Green3 said on October 18th, 2006
Where do you live now Andrew? Just playing, but seriously...I'd help, although you don't want me drilling. Only needs one bolt redrilled? Or is the whole route supposed to be reequipped?
11
512OW said on June 7th, 2007
Only get credit for 12d?? Shouldn't it be 12d then?
12
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2007
Has the first bolt been re-equipped yet?
13
Andrew said on June 14th, 2007
It is open.
14
ray said on September 16th, 2007
3 distinct cruxes separated by good rests. If you feel like you don't have any endurance but still want to do some hard moves then this is for you. Very good climbing. This wall is one of the best.
15
SCIN said on November 25th, 2007
4th bolt was moved to the right today to follow the natural flow of least resistance.
16
JR said on November 25th, 2007
Kudos
17
Andrew said on November 25th, 2007
Least resistance for who? I am going to move it back so that it follows the line of least resistance.
18
said on November 25th, 2007
awesome!
19
weber said on November 26th, 2007
Please leave the 4th bolt where we put it.
20
SCIN said on November 26th, 2007
Andrew, the bolt now allows for easy clipping no matter which way you go. It won't mess with the way you do the route (out left).
21
weber said on November 26th, 2007
Also replaced the bent gate biners on the top anchor slings. They were worn half way through. Y'all might wanna check out the gear you're lowering from.
22
heavyc said on December 18th, 2007
I haven't sent this, but didn't have any trouble clipping with the original line of bolts and don't care where you put the bolts IMO it is at least a solid 12D
23
chriss said on December 18th, 2007
I agree with heavyc, but I'm not much of a boulderer. I think that jesus wept is a letter grade easier and prometheus is harder (compared to triple sec). If triple sec is 12c, then JW should be 12b and PU would be a solid 12d. I haven't been on name dropper yet, but I'll assume it should also get downgraded to 12d.
24
SCIN said on December 18th, 2007
Okay, 12c was a guess. It's at 12d now. Maybe 2 letter grades was a bit much. Name Dropper is solid 13. It's the hardest on the wall I think. Also the coolest.
25
Andrew said on December 19th, 2007
Since there are more pictures of me on the route than anyone else, then I get to decide. 12c
26
bcombs said on December 19th, 2007
Since I have *watched more people climb this route than anyone else, then I get to decide. 12d (well, that and I'm scared to disagree with HeavyC)
27
512OW said on April 15th, 2008
Easier than Jesus Wept. One move. The other "cruxes" are basic 12a face climbing. No pump factor. And whatever Albatross Andrew is doing in that photo is retarded... he's skippin big holds just to look cool for the camera, I think.
28
Andrew said on April 15th, 2008
I did the route in the easiest possible way kris "sponsored" Hampton. Like I said, if I would have FA'ed it, the grade would be 12c.
29
Green3 said on April 28th, 2008
Don't know why I'm jumping into the ratings war here, but I go with 12c/d. I hate the slash grade, but that's my opinion. It's all subjective to the climber anyway.
30
italianwrestler125 said on July 16th, 2008
absolutely fantastic climb, incredibly fun movement
31
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2009
HAHAHA Albatross andrew!! HAHAHA oh BTW this route = not that good & 12d
32
der uber said on April 5th, 2009
Great moves. It's a good thing you don't have to do the moves as portrayed in the guidebook photos - it's no height dependent either, which was a concern. Super cool boulder problems, generous rests. Did not feel like 12d but maybe I fit well on it. Great route no matter the grade.
33
aburgoon said on October 5th, 2010
Figure-foured past the initial long reach. Second crux is probably 5.11b/5.10d. Third crux is so easy didn't even bother to do it. If I had to grade it I would put it somewhere between the decent off of intersection rock in Joshua Tree and the approach hike for Ceuse.
34
Brentucky said on March 11th, 2013
Cruxes felt about as hard as the cruxes of some of the newer "11+'s" I can think of all put up by the local sandbaggers club. Do hardest move on Shadow Enhancement, rest, do hardest move on Scarlett Scorchdropper, rest, finish off on top of Barren Gold. That is just about equivalent to this climb, and it is badass and beautiful indeed!!!
35
dustonian said on March 11th, 2013
See, and I think 11c for that middle "crux" is about right...
36
Lil Josh said on March 31st, 2013
Great climb. :)
37
THB said on May 27th, 2013
Great route! Also, I think it's easier than Jesus Wept, hands down... enough so to call it 12c. And I think on-point the middle crux is equally as difficult as the 1st crux.
38
dustonian said on May 27th, 2013
What, did you get tired from sitting on the big ledge? Why does it matter if you are "on point"? PS. the middle crux is 5.11 ;)
39
THB said on May 28th, 2013
Dustin, the 1st crux is 5.11... For me, this is my fastest 12d send to date. Easier than any other 12d I've done... I think easier than Heart Shaped Box... 12c is fair. But why squabble over the grade... it's really quite trivial... This route is a great route! DO IT!
40
neeko said on May 28th, 2013
shshsh guys, as none of you used the kneebar in the upper crux, you're not allowed to downgrade it :)
41
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2015
SO SIKED, I SENT THIS, BETTER TAKE A SCREENSHOT OF ME TICKING THIS CLIMB AND POST IT ON FACEBOOK !
42
climb2core said on November 20th, 2016
Used an undercling to small crimp out left previously not used. This beta is a fair bit easier than the right beta, or Albatross Andrew's if you don't have a 7 foot wing span. Didn't send as I messed up the beginning, but my partner did with other/new beta. We both agreed 12c, similar in difficulty to Demon Seed
43
ray said on November 20th, 2016
Wow man, you found a hold in the crux never used in 12 years!? You are like the Christopher Columbus of hold finding!
44
climb2core said on November 20th, 2016
Yes, the holds stay dry up there and if it was used it'd be chalked. Similar to Summer Sunshine where I ended up going direct and bipassed the crap out left. Honestly, people just tend to follow the chalk. But sure, I can walk my comment back to "used very little if ever crimp". It's a lot closer to the beta Andrew used, but going with right hand undercling.
45
Anonymous said on November 20th, 2016
Wow who would have thought of the super secret beta of going direct instead of the left.... Ian we don't need a move by move story about a climb. Keep your super secret safety beta to yourself unless someone asks. What an odd thing you decided to post...
46
allah said on November 28th, 2016
Whatever, it's a jug haul anyways ;)