Dynabolt Gold

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

Momma Cindy


8.
+1
1 votes

Little T-Bone 5.9 (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Mike Susko, Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 75ft
Bolts/Gear: 2/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin under the obvious handcrack splitting the Great Wall. Boulder out the initial roof to an alcove with a bolt. Plug a piece, make the mental move, protect in the crack, and enjoy huge plates all the way to the end of the crack and another bolt on the juggy face above.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.53 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (50 votes)

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Comments

1
Caspian said on October 19th, 2004
"boulder....to an aclove with a Bolt...plug a peice"? Am I the only one that is confused about this statement? Although I partially agree with the later half of the statement....I dont think the route needs to be mixed.
2
J-Rock said on October 25th, 2004
True this could be a trad route, but the landowner wants to avoid R-rated routes.
3
Caspian said on November 3rd, 2004
Regardless....great route and great picture
4
Wes said on June 20th, 2005
Would be much better as a pure sport route. probably "R" rated as a mixed route anyway.
5
Paul3eb said on June 20th, 2005
agreed about the sport route thought.. "pogue ethics"-type holds. definitely fun, though.
6
J-Rock said on June 20th, 2005
It would be unwise (and unethical) to bolt such an obvious crack that protects extremely well. Even as a trad route I would hesitate to give it an R rating. I've led this route and it DEFINITELY not R rated nor should it be a sport route. There is good gear the whole way. Should "Central Scrutinizer" be bolted also? What about "Synchronicity"? How does one decide when a crack that takes great gear should be bolted and made into a sport route? I don't understand...
7
Wes said on June 21st, 2005
That first bolt does nothing to keep your from hitting the big ledge, and unless there is some kinda crazy beta, I couldn't get to the crack to place any gear that would keep me off that ledge while pulling the crux moves (on somewhat sketchy, dirty rock). If your stated reason to add the bolts was to keep it from being an R rated route, then you should at least put the bolt where it will do some good. And just beause it is a vert crack, doesn't mean it takes more (or less) gear then the normal rrg pocketed face climb.
8
J-Rock said on June 21st, 2005
Before making the move off of the big ledge it is possible to place a small TCU up high (it is near the limit of my reach) from a good jug up and to the left. It will keep you off of the ledge. Ultimately it is the leader's responsiblity to determine their own level of acceptable risk. The rock was pretty solid when we first climbed it although it was a new route and we expect there to be some sketchy and dirty rock now and then. Nothing broke when T bone led it and nothing broke when I led it. We climb smart and light though and we avoid sketchy rock. Maybe I'm still a traddy at heart, but it just doesn't feel right to put bolts on an obviously well protected crack. I can undestand bolting a pocketed face though (especially when you place your hands and feet in those same pockets and most climbers aren't completely competent protecting in pockets with TCUs, trimcams, etc.). Tim made a good call. It wasn't totally necessary for him to add two bolts to this route, but it was nice of him and most people are more than happy to clip them. Of course you could always skip them and climb it as a trad route, but I could NEVER imagine it being a sport route. That is just plain wrong.
9
pigsteak said on July 3rd, 2005
Fun route. I disagree that it would be "plain wrong" as a sport route... however, today's ethics don't allow it, so that's where we are. And I liked it on gear. The bolts are fine. We can skip them if we want.
10
J-Rock said on July 6th, 2005
I can see it now... gym climbing ethics are becoming commonplace in the outdoors. in the future ALL cracks will be COMPLETELY bolted. Say goodbye to traditional climbing and mixed routes.
11
Caspian said on November 1st, 2005
I agree with J-Rock. If it doesnt need a bolt, then I dont see why one should be installed. I believe that point of view is a less impacting and less intrusive stance than..."bolt everything, and if you dont like it, skip it" I think there are plenty of bolts to clip out there. So if you dont like the way the FA chose to climb the route....then skip it.
12
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2006
This is a good route, but by no means is it a 5 star classic as listed in the new guide. You really want to put this route on the same pedestal as Rock Wars? C'mon. Muir gets way too much credit for having classic routes in the new guidebook. There are good routes here, but most deserve about a star or two less on the quality rating.
13
512OW said on July 2nd, 2007
10a???? Thats the grossest example of overgrading I've ever encountered. This is MAYBE 5.9 on a wet day. 5.8+ every other day of the year. Lots of fun, good gear... ALL jugs.
14
woman said on July 2nd, 2007
I agree with Kris on the rating. At any other crag in the country this would be 5.8+. In anycase, fun stuff.
15
soccerfast007 said on August 29th, 2007
going right at the overhang is probably not the easiest way....left was funky but functional...very fun route
16
Anonymous said on May 17th, 2009
This route is way overgraded! I'd put it on par with the 5.7 at the left end of the cliff! The bolts are unnecessary, especially the 1st which only creates a ledge fall, it would be PG without the bolts. Didn't even think it was that good of a route. Mindless jug haul next to a crack. 1 star.
17
bcombs said on February 4th, 2012
Pretty good. It should just be bolted. It would get done more.
18
Willy said on March 7th, 2012
Protects just fine wish it wasn't mixed. Don't clip the bolt inside the alcove its absolutely useless and causes rope drag unless you put a big sling and then there is still no point
19
Cleveland said on April 23rd, 2012
This route is really awesome, but I do think it should be bolted.
20
dfspau2 said on August 8th, 2012
Why would you ever bolt a crack that protects well for 50 ft, if it was one piece of gear I could understand but the majority of the route takes bomber gear! Well done!
21
Spikeddem said on December 3rd, 2012
Shouldn't be bolted.
22
DrRockso said on June 13th, 2013
What a great route! Decided to jump on it while the rest of the wall was getting gang banged, so glad I did. Protects well with a standard rack or even just a BD #1 and 2 plus the bolts!.
23
caribe said on August 16th, 2013
I did it safely without clipping the bolts.
24
Anonymous said on August 16th, 2013
Placing pro or running it out?
25
rjackson said on October 18th, 2013
FUN! Just the way it is...
26
Kyle Hartung said on July 14th, 2014
I actually had more fun leading this route than the rest of the wall. Crux move was bouldery but fun, then the rest of the climb is great. I had no problem with the bolts, just clipped em then kept climbing. Better than Dynabolt IMO.
27
Chiyram said on November 6th, 2016
Awesome sport route!