Little T-Bone

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

Edge-a-Sketch


9.
+1
1 votes

Momma Cindy 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Mike Susko, Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Technical and sustained. Pull the bouldery start with a two finger pocket, some edges, and a few crimps then enjoy several balancy and reachy sections with a few fun slopers, edges, and sidepulls.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.93 stars (96 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (95 votes)

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Submitted by: ddchil01
Date: Apr 3rd, 2019

Submitted by: ddchil01
Date: Apr 3rd, 2019

Comments

1
J-Rock said on August 19th, 2004
climbs like something out of New River. Very enjoyable.
2
Gaar said on September 28th, 2004
Your reach better be lond for the first move!
3
Sco Bro said on November 11th, 2004
What an awesome route, burly start leads to a fun lead on a variety of holds.
4
Stewy911 said on February 6th, 2005
This my friends is an AWESOME route. Its f'in awesome
5
bhuff04 said on April 18th, 2005
This route was incredible... if I could put the feeling I got after finishing this into a pill, I'd never take my anti-depressants again
6
ray said on May 22nd, 2005
I loved this line. Unique movement.
7
Paul3eb said on June 20th, 2005
another boulder problem to what would be a spicy third bolt if you're hanging the draws.. more sustained than edge-a-sketch and slopey.
8
Sunshine said on August 15th, 2005
If you fall going to the third you WILL hit the starting ledge. Great route.
9
squeezindlemmon said on August 16th, 2005
If you fall going to the third, you shouldn't be climbing a route above your level. But like everyone said, GREAT ROUTE! ;)
10
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2005
Squeeze, I disagree w/ you. I backed off hanging the draws on this b/c of the potential ledge hitting fall going to the 3rd. I'm a solid 11 sport climber but had never been on the route, didn't know what I was going for, etc. Falling isn't always within our control... what if a hold broke? What if I totally misread the route and went to the wrong thing (I did, and downclimbed so as to not fall and hit the ledge). I think that this could be solved by adding a bolt or revisiting some bolt placement. I agree w/ sunshine on this one. This route is fun, but the fall potential has an element of danger going to the 3rd. I offer this critique not to belittle the efforts of Tim, Mike and Jared, but to point out the potentially dangerous fall to folks who climb it. I agree that it is a great line, fun route. Just be careful if the bolting remains as is.
11
hoss said on September 29th, 2005
stop yer bitchin, grow some testicles, and go for it.
12
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2005
thanks hoss...i'll try like hell to grow some testes, but that'll be tough for a chic. i'm not suggesting the route is bad, just that there is some danger. i think that it is relevant to point this out to folks who are thinking about jumping on it.
13
Sunshine said on October 4th, 2005
Squeezin, so falling on an on-sight attempt is out of the question? I don't think so. What are the bolts for? Is the ledge fall potential intentional? I bet not. The route is good. It's just not bolted well down low. Someone will break something on this route and it won't be rock. If it were my route I would fix it.
14
the lurkist said on October 10th, 2005
Have your trad face on. The third bolt is a difficult clip and is a "falling is not an option" zone with a ankle breaker onto a ledge. Great route. Great Wall.
15
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2005
Aye Matey! Pirates will love this route because it is RRRRRRRRRRRRRR-rated! Harr Harr Harr!!!
16
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2005
It's a good thing they have the new highway for rescues.
17
pawilkes said on October 21st, 2005
someone, don't worry about growing testes, you can just get ovaries of steel (this is way less confusing if you compair that statement to "balls of steel")
18
Stewy911 said on November 8th, 2005
i think this route is just as hard as edge a sketch.
19
caribe said on March 25th, 2007
Climbed it for the first time today onsight. I don't see what the problem is. There are sketchier routes that don't generate this much discussion.
20
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2007
I climbed this route for the first time on Apr 17th, 2007. It was my first attempt at a 5.11 lead of any sort. I did fall going for the third and I did hit the ledge. My belayer reacted quickly but I yanked him off the ground and stretched the rope enough to allow a low force impact. I was not severely injured, left heel bruised but not broken! The fall did get my adrenaline pumping so that I managed to get back to business and succeeded on the climb. That being said... this route was previously "above my level" and some may consider it still so. However, one must find an insurmountable obstacle in order to define his/her limitations. My next goal is 5.12. I may fail, but that won't keep me from trying. In conclusion, the route is somewhat dangerous, but that is the thrill of climbing. A lighter belayer, a little more slack, more stretch, etc., would have resulted in a severe injury. If you are climbing at or close to your limit, pack the stick clip w/you, static in, and "cheat" if necessary. It is otherwise an outstanding climb, one of my favorites.
21
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2007
for clarification, the "someone" in the previous post is not the same "someone" that posted in '05.
22
RRO said on April 21st, 2007
but is the new someone really someone or someone pretending to be someone ?
23
FujManiac said on June 30th, 2007
great fun route, one of my favorites! Pulling the start was the best part, becasue that first bolt is so far away and you're like, "If I mess this up, I'll be messed up" very fun!
24
512OW said on July 2nd, 2007
I don't recall any sketchiness...
25
Andrew said on July 2nd, 2007
Nor I.
26
bcombs said on July 23rd, 2007
No sketch, but soft even at the downgraded 11b.
27
der uber said on June 18th, 2009
Crazy little crux at the start! There was a nice puzzle a few bolts up - high left foot, long reach up left to a thin plate crimp.
28
jenbongo said on November 10th, 2009
Best climb I've been on in a long time. Awesome moves! At 5'5, my belayer says it was my abs that got me through the start.
29
jenbongo said on April 16th, 2010
Why has my hardest onsight been downgraded TWICE? The consensus is still .11b. And my only other .11b (Edge-a-Sketch) was downgraded, too. What should I send next that won't get downgraded?
30
ahab said on April 17th, 2010
king me.
31
Anonymous said on May 27th, 2010
The horn by the third clip is not that good, dont be fooled. Also, spiders live on the clipping for the third clip. I loved this route.
32
Spikeddem said on March 8th, 2012
Didn't notice anything near the third bolt, but maybe it just seemed tame in comparison to doing the opening without any protection? Really enjoyable route though. Fantastic contrast between the powerful intro and the balancy, high-stepping business later on.
33
nik said on May 8th, 2012
great route. fun boulder problem down low to techy climbing to the chains. this was one of my first 11's and i didn't feel sketched going to the third at all (there's a pretty obvious horn that you shoot for -- and it's fine). i would, however, recommend a stick clip for the first bolt!
34
tpowell said on May 12th, 2012
The start is a little hairy, make sure you know your foot placement for when you swing out over the ledge. After that the climbing is slightly technical and fun, as long as your comfortable in the 5.11 grade.
35
stringsturtle said on August 7th, 2012
totally safe just do it
36
pdpcardsfan said on September 28th, 2013
Only .11 part of this route is the start.
37
Episketch said on June 12th, 2014
This was my second 11a lead climb, and I was pretty scared when clipping the 3rd bolt. Probably no big deal for a solid 11 climber, but it would make me think twice about recommending the route to someone just breaking into the grade. However, the climbing was excellent and I'm really glad I didn't let fear stop me from completing it.
38
AdamDugan said on September 8th, 2014
When every other route on the wall is soaked from run off, this one was dry bottom to top.
39
Kyle Hartung said on November 10th, 2014
I led this without much trouble in 40 degrees, wind, rain and hail. Didn't realize that the 3rd bolt was sketchy until reading that everybody else thought it was - seemed like an easy enough clip when I was on it. Most of the wall was soaked but this climb was still dry. Between Etch A Sketch and this I'd say I like Etch A Sketch better, but a fun route.
40
Chiyram said on November 6th, 2016
Didn't care for this one. Seemed awkward and not as fun as the two 11s to the right.
41
Daeris said on August 28th, 2017
Onsighted. I think 11b is pretty generous. I've finished a few 11b, but definitely haven't onsighted one. I think this is 11a, things feel in the hard 10 range after the roof pull, and as long as you get creative with your rests this is sendable.
42
Anonymous said on August 28th, 2017
That big post, just to agree with the historical grade?
43
Anonymous said on August 28th, 2017
Thank you for the invaluable input, Daeris--nailing down the subtle differences between 11a and b on this route is critical
44
Daeris said on August 30th, 2017
Lol, you guys must be soooo much fun at parties. What's it like being climbing elitists? Maybe I'll be there one day, warming up on 12s and making fun of all the newbie climbers while I rip my shirt off and grunt loudly pulling all those tough cruxes. Have a great day guys! <3
45
Anonymous said on August 30th, 2017
elitists? no, just honoring the dipshit in you daeris.
46
Anonymous said on August 31st, 2017
i don't know if they're elitists so much as they're saying it's silly to argue over grades when you think it's just one letter off. like, 11a vs. 11b - what does it really matter? at that point, style, conditions, how much you slept, etc. are all going to matter a lot in distinguishing one climb from another. this would go for 12d vs. 13a or 10a vs. 10b. i start worrying about the grade if it feels waaay off - like two letters or more. but that's just me. (btw, it's been rated 11a for years now)
47
Tunica Intima said on August 24th, 2018
Awesome route, really nice movement on this climb!