COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Ohio Arts

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

La Escalada

1 votes

Buccaneer 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tim Powers in 2009
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Previously a toprope line is now a bolted line as of 2009.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

3.43 stars (37 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (50 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: CRZYFST
Date: Sep 25th, 2017


Anonymous said on April 19th, 2005
When will this be bolted?
t bone said on April 21st, 2005
It may never be bolted, It is not all that good. Rock quality is much lower than other routes near by. It will remain a top rope route for now.
pigsteak said on July 2nd, 2009
how the heck did chriss lead this when it has no bolts. I call that padding he spray list.
pigsteak said on July 4th, 2009
rock quality is fine. now bolted.
Andrew said on July 12th, 2009
Way better than 2 stars, but probably 11a
pigsteak said on July 12th, 2009
mark it 11b..I was going from Tim's memory of his TR year's back. I haven't climbed it yet myself. pretty good line though, eh andrew?
pawilkes said on July 19th, 2009
This route is 11b for the gorge, but if rated with respect to the other routes on the wall, probably 11c. the crimps are kind of small and a little sharp.
blakeleathers said on July 20th, 2009
real fun climb, small holds majority of the route always makes it fun..
rdo'c said on September 13th, 2009
After you send the other two 11s on the wall jump on this "11b" for an ego re-adjustment.
pigsteak said on November 27th, 2009
got a chance to climb this today..not a bad line after all. agree with pawilkes..crimps a re a bit sharp.
jenbongo said on November 2nd, 2010
I didn't like the placement of the last bolt. Why is it over a bulge? The bottom biner of my draw was rubbing against the rock. I switched to a sling, but now the sling has some wear. After falling on it twice, I bailed, so there's a quick-link there now. I don't know whether that will help or hurt the next person when they go to clip it.
Brentucky said on November 13th, 2010
I thought this route was great, thanks for bolting it piggie. A solid step up from it's neighbors that's for sure. To me it felt similar in difficulty to Ohio Arts, but I think this might actually have been harder.
bcombs said on February 4th, 2012
Felt hard for 11b on the first go. Then it felt harder on the second go because I think I broke a key foot between the last bolt and the anchors. Makes that hard move at the top feel harder. Sorry.
Rollo said on April 15th, 2012
No doubt this thing is a hard to onsight for the grade. Second go with the sequence down it feels right on for 11b. Not my style but still liked it alot!
Jeff said on June 30th, 2012
Had to work it a bit to figure out beta. Good line!!
dustonian said on September 26th, 2012
really fun climbing!
Chiyram said on May 19th, 2014
This route gets a lot of crap,but I think it's the best on the wall. Technical climbing and it's about right on for the grade.
Anonymous said on August 9th, 2020
Jugs, 3 stars