Earthsurfer

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Hideout

Moots Madness


4.
+0
0 votes

Cruisin' for a Bruisin' 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, David Fromke in 2004
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Climbs incut crimps up gorgeous vertical orange face to a short crux at a perplexing bulge that can be surmounted several different ways. May feel slightly harder for the shorter climber.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.85 stars (89 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (83 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
rhunt said on November 16th, 2004
fun route! I've done it twice now and it seems more like mid 5.10 then 5.11a
2
J-Rock said on November 24th, 2004
The bulge felt like 11- to me and at least 10 other climbers. Therefore, the grade will remain at 11a unless a larger consensus feels otherwise.
3
Anonymous said on January 9th, 2005
A 10b. Traversing the horizontal crack was tricky I guess thats the bulge. Find the holds and its a 5.10.
4
Anonymous said on January 15th, 2005
Climbing up little holes and stuff like taht
5
J-Rock said on May 16th, 2005
If you have a good reach then this route is probably only a 5.10c/d. Otherwise, it might be 5.11-.
6
Anonymous said on May 16th, 2005
5'8"...Low 10, but a good one!
7
jlu said on July 24th, 2005
not particularly difficult, pretty consistent moves, but all manageable (I'm 5'7")
8
merrick said on November 3rd, 2005
i thought this climb was awesome and the 10d seemed right to me(i am quite short too). i apprecitated the fact that it was technical roof rather than a powerful one. the red has it all.
9
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2005
yea im really short too and the crux clip was really hard fer me but on the 3rd try i sent it maxclimb11 (sry i forgot how to log into the guidebook)
10
Myke Dronez said on January 26th, 2008
I'm 5'6" and didn't find the route was super reachy (see jack move @ left field). I thought the crux was traversing to the left side of the bulge- once you're there theres good holds to use. The rest is just feet up and commit.
11
anticlmber said on October 26th, 2009
good climb, interesting moves at bulge. morgan fairchilds breasts are amazing!!
12
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2011
so very 10a.
13
swj said on September 19th, 2011
I'm 5'9" and this felt pretty soft for a 10d.
14
tpowell said on June 24th, 2012
Great route until the bulge which is a decent crux. The crimps on it are better than you may think at first sight.
15
friar_truck said on March 17th, 2015
Awesome route, easy for the grade. Others have mentioned traversing to the left at the bulge, but for taller climbers it can be a super fun stretch-throw to the horn on the top left side. Sort of a blind toss, but grab up high and on the left side. Super fun move there, followed by a perfectly placed undercling to use to stand up.