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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Souders Crack

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

 Now I'm Nothing

17.
+4
4 votes

Rock Wars 5.10a (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Grant Stephens, Anthony Snider in 1986
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the flake on the right side of the face in front of the huge boulder.
5.9+ to the first set of anchors. 5.10a to the second set. Second pitch FA: Tom Souders, 1986
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
classic (4) beautiful (4) fingers (4) technical (2) dihedral (2) fun (1) vertical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.86 stars (112 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (74 votes)

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17 comments {add your own comments}
1
Wes said on January 16th, 2003
Top is very cool, and not much (if any) harder then the bottom.
2
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2003
I am often asked why I stopped at the ledge on this route rather than continuing up to where Tom placed the top anchors. The answer is simple: I didn't have a drill and the original anchors were two wired stoppers in the crack on the ledge. I am not sure who placed the intermediate bolts. My wired stoppers were the only gear I had with me that would get me to the ground in one piece. Grant Stephens
3
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
Yes yes yes... don't stop till the top anchors! That last 20 feet is as good as (maybe better than) the first 60! This route is definately a MUST DO!
4
J-Rock said on April 15th, 2005
Mega classic!
5
dah-le said on June 2nd, 2005
5/31/2005 - Word is that one bolt of the first set of anchors is no longer there. Two stories I know of...someone removed the bolt by hand, and someone whipped off it and it pulled.
6
pawilkes said on June 20th, 2005
my first .10 trad route and it scarred the living daylights out of me. i almost fell twice in that top 20 feet. got to the anchors and i was shaking uncontrollably, i was scared i wouldn't be able to clip the anchors. lots of fun :)
7
chh said on April 24th, 2006
my first .10 gear lead as well. first set of anchors is still missing a bolt, but I don't know why you would stop there anyway. I think the 10a part is the from the 1st achors to the ledge at the second anchors. To the first anchors 9+?
8
climbrap said on June 3rd, 2006
I never should have gotten on this route. It was rated a 9+ back then and I nearly died. Fell from just below the anchors to within about 4 feet of the ground. Pulled three pieces; a #10 or 11 stopper at around the halfway point saved me. This was in 1994, maybe. Wow, that's a long time ago!
9
TIT said on July 16th, 2007
The first set of anchors is missing a bolt, but the best climbing is definitely above it. I hope no one adds a bolt, so it will force people to go to the top anchors. Five star classic, takes good pro the whole way.
10
512OW said on July 16th, 2007
Nobodys gonna add a bolt. I pulled the old one out by hand about 8 or 10 years ago....still have it, I think.
11
Myke Dronez said on August 11th, 2008
This ain't no mixed line- chop chop.
12
rjackson said on March 15th, 2009
What a beautiful route. A classic. Stayed dry in the nastiest of conditions.
13
BVD said on November 6th, 2009
no exaggeration about staying dry even in a downpour.
14
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2010
herd mentality
15
kzr640 said on April 20th, 2010
How beautiful!! You must climb this!!
16
Willy said on September 25th, 2012
So good you'll climb it twice or at least wish you did
17
jnolte said on May 1st, 2017
Anchors tightened on 4/29/17