Tight Lipped

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Indy Wall

Peer Pressure


13.
+0
0 votes

Social Stigma 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Karla Carandang, Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This sport route is ~15 left of "Posse Whipped". Locate a line of bolts up a dark orange stain. Fun slab start leads to sustained crimping up the steepening face to a couple of big moves on good holds at the top.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Fixe Anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.47 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (44 votes)

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Comments

1
Stewy911 said on February 5th, 2005
Cool route. Its alil chossy looking from the ground but it climbs well
2
Stewy911 said on February 16th, 2005
I dont know what to rate this route right now because its just a sustained crimp route, no really crux in it besides maybe a few longer moves. 11 something?
3
chriss said on March 19th, 2005
fun route. Will probally become much harder when all the holds finish breaking off.
4
hoss said on March 21st, 2005
This thing will be a 12, give it two years. I only climbed it twice and broke off at least 4 holds
5
Power2U said on May 24th, 2005
I think it is 11a. Cool face climbing on subtle knobs jutting out from the wall. Seemed pretty solid when I did it, but you could see where lots of stuff had broken off.
6
Sunshine said on May 30th, 2005
Very fun route. The team cleaned it up some. I don't see it getting any more difficult than it is now. If the little pinch at the crux were to break there is slightly harder beta to the left. It would need to be cleaned. I would rate it 10d. If you are very short it would be harder.
7
J-Rock said on May 31st, 2005
The first ascentionist is 4' 11". Definitely not 5.10 or even 5.11 for her!
8
squeezindlemmon said on May 31st, 2005
I'm taller than 4'11"!!!! But yeah, you guys are right, a lot more difficult for shorter people.
9
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2005
Not 11d, more like 11c. 11d for dwarfs, midgets, and elfs. And Yoda too! Wait, no, it might only be 5.7 for Yoda since he has those "special" midichlorian powers. Maybe 5.10d for Sunnyboy since he is like a God in mastering the subtle ways of the Force. Still probably 11 something for most mere mortals lacking in Jedi knowledge.
10
Anonymous said on October 6th, 2005
So this route is just two letter grades than the one to the right?
11
J-Rock said on November 30th, 2005
We'd like to add a 2nd pitch to this one also. Oh yeah, what fun it will be. Great views from the top too.
12
Brentucky said on May 1st, 2011
In its current state the crux is a long reach to a small, crimpy hold, and then a long move off of that with several remnants of broken holds in that vicinity. I think 11d sounds about right, for now at least.