Pre-emptive Strike

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Hideout

Boltergeist


7.
+2
2 votes

Shock and Awe 5.7 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: J.J. in 2004
Length: 95ft
Gear: Small to large gear (report bad anchors)

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Magnificent bright orange crack between Moots Madness and Boltergeist.
Descent: Rap from anchors.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
juggy (1) beautiful (1) steep (1) exposed (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.86 stars (56 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8- (55 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 19th, 2019

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Oct 28th, 2009

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Oct 28th, 2009

Comments

1
said on November 8th, 2004
super fun, but tread carefully once you get into the hueco. Lots of loose rock and delicate holds. Very sporty trad route on the top half.
2
J-Rock said on May 9th, 2005
The rock looks sketchy and loose, but it is surprisingly solid.
3
Joel said on May 11th, 2005
Very fun route. Nicely tall, variety of moves. I will do it again. I thought it was 5.7. Most of my friends thought it was 5.8. No one said 5.9. Some of those huge but thin plates near the top will probably break eventually. They held me, but didn't inspire a whole lot of confidence.
4
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
NC 5.6
5
ynot said on November 15th, 2005
Stellar route. Needs more stars. I think it will be classic even if some stuff breaks It's more solid than it looks and feels.
6
SteelShaft said on November 16th, 2005
I have a feeling someones going to break that huge jug at the top of the hueco, it's just begging to snap.
7
randomboulder said on March 13th, 2006
Excellent route. All the jugs felt pretty solid to me.
8
ReachHigh said on May 22nd, 2006
Awesome route. a little of everything on it.
9
mojohand said on October 6th, 2008
fun & very Gunks-ish...
10
rjackson said on October 22nd, 2008
Appropriately named...
11
jenbongo said on April 6th, 2009
yup, that huge jug above the hueco just popped off on Saturday when a climber hit it with his knee; luckily he yelled rock soon enough that those of us below had enough time to run; does this make it more than a 5.8 now?
12
jenbongo said on April 6th, 2009
it is possible to traverse right from the second last bolt on pre-emptive strike to set this up for TR - with only a few mid-sized cams; the traverse is a little dirty, though, and I'd still beware of loose rock
13
Anonymous said on May 17th, 2009
5.8+ the guide gives it ? Compared to other 5.8+s (which are usually stout or sandbags) this is a joke. Like 5.5 compared to other RRG grades and maybe easier if comparing to Gunks or Seneca. And the description of "magnificent" - what was? The dirt? Give it a couple of stars and drop the grade.
14
BabeeJeezus said on June 6th, 2009
as the sun sets
15
anticlmber said on October 26th, 2009
woohoo, route #400. awesome route. one of the best in a long time.
16
jenbongo said on November 2nd, 2010
We break a hold off and you downgrade it? Since when does a 5.7 come with a roof anyway? You can take the + off, but it's still 5.8. And the bottom seems a bit run-out.
17
Anonymous said on April 9th, 2012
I didn't find it run-out, but the huge rat living in the Hueco is pretty creepy!
18
monty4355 said on July 17th, 2012
Awesome route! I would not call the bottom runout just tricky to protect. This route is not 5.8 in anyway... Every hold out the roof is huge!
19
tunedvwgti said on July 27th, 2017
Big ole jugs on the overhanging section, really fun and drawn out. Good view from the top. Could be called "pumpy" for 5.7, but the holds are huge and plentiful. Good fun for a 5.7 trad line.