DaVinci's Left Ear

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Different Strokes


5.
+0
0 votes

Smack Dab 5.11b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Blake Bowling in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Climb the vertical face 10 feet right of the previous line. The top section is often wet.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (40 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (38 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos

Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}

Comments

1
Paul3eb said on May 24th, 2005
biggest pile of choss ever (after brother stair). seriously, though, i broke at least six holds and every hold had a huge layer of dirt on it. i appreciate the efforts to contribute to the climbing community but the world would be better served if the bolts were chopped on this. this is good intentions gone bad. not to mention i almost decked onto the ledge after a hold broke above the second clip. and cleaning will do nothing to this route: it sits directly in the path of water flow that surely delivers plenty of mud every time it rains. this would be funny except i'm dead serious: absolute choss pile. i refuse to give it even one star.
2
Yasmeen said on May 24th, 2005
"I'm so glad that was your knees [in my ass] and not the ledge." ~Paul, post-near-deck-experience
3
Sco Bro said on May 31st, 2005
Southern Region Adventure Climbing Extraordinaire. This route will need a lot of traffic to clean up. It is dirty, but more than anything it is lichen covered to the extent that you end up in coughing fits from the dust on a dry day. It is a crimp fest, with lichen for feat. It's harder than 11b, oh yes.
4
Gaar said on August 15th, 2005
Run! Far and Fast!!
5
Sunshine said on September 13th, 2005
Paul, I got on this route yesterday. It is dirty. The routes to either side were just as dirty in the beginning! That is because it probably has not been climbed since I bolted it two years ago! I didn't see any evidence of any major hold breakage. The moves are really good on this route. I plan to completely rebolt it. I will post when it is redone and clean. You will experience the difference between night and day. This route truly rocks. Trust me.
6
Paul3eb said on September 14th, 2005
i have faith.. but this will take a lot of it. a few things i'd worry about: if it'll ever really clean up since it's in the runoff path from the cliff and the holds (i really did break off quite a few). but then again, "sunshine said, 'let there be a climb', and there was" kindred 2:7. so i'll keep the faith ;)
7
Sunshine said on September 28th, 2005
It is so. Still needs some cleaning.
8
Power2U said on April 24th, 2006
Paul3eb, thanks for breaking off the holds, and Sunshine thanks for re-bolting it. The moves on thsi thing are pretty fun and it seemed pretty sold at this point, although it was a tad dirty, but I remember Different Strokes bring quite dirty at firat too, but it is a Gorge classic now!
9
pawilkes said on October 14th, 2007
this route offers up some interesting moves, kinda balancy. it has cleaned up quite a bit and I would say is a decent route. there are some moves off small, slopey holds that make it interesting.
10
pawilkes said on October 14th, 2007
this route offers up some interesting moves, kinda balancy. it has cleaned up quite a bit and I would say is a decent route. there are some moves off small, slopey holds that make it interesting.
11
pawilkes said on October 14th, 2007
this route offers up some interesting moves, kinda balancy. it has cleaned up quite a bit and I would say is a decent route. there are some moves off small, slopey holds that make it interesting.
12
anticlmber said on October 17th, 2007
damn paul. i thought this route was SUPERB!! great movement, technical, and a slight spicy taste. Great route and not that dirty, get on it.
13
pigsteak said on November 26th, 2007
I concur anti...fin, fine line. time has changed it's nature...now a must do when in the area.
14
krampus said on September 29th, 2008
definitely cleaned up a lot, I had no trouble with liken or choss. I would recommend it to anyone in the area.
15
chossmonkey said on October 26th, 2008
It was a little dirty when we did it. It seemed really hard while onsighting it, but once I figured out and did each move they weren't that bad. There were some really sharp holds on the bottom. A big foothold broke up high when my friend was climbing it. I didn't like it, but someone had done it earlier that day and really liked it. Arguably it wasn't really the style that enjoy.
16
Wolf said on October 31st, 2008
It's a good route now.
17
Brentucky said on November 3rd, 2008
maybe this thing sucked back in the day, but now it is a badass, techy line with some solid crimps and several balance moves on just good enough slopers. i didn't find a single questionable hold on it (chossily speaking). you can also manage to pull out a rest just about the whole way up if you work the body right.
18
bcombs said on January 10th, 2009
I thought this was really good, slightly dirty, but cool sidepull moves and some spice in the top. Sorry about breaking the right hand crimp heading to the 3rd bolt. It's much smaller, and sharper now. :-)
19
Sco Bro said on July 20th, 2009
Still dirty.
20
caribe said on August 16th, 2009
Brushed this thing quite a bit. Great movement. No holds broke. I think this line is STELLAR.
21
climb2core said on October 17th, 2012
The black sheep on the wall... this line deserves more traffic. Varied movement on good rock that makes you have to work to figure it out.
22
Spikeddem said on October 24th, 2012
Should be named Choss-ray Vision in honor of the FA's ability to see this gem beneath the dirty and friable holds. Goooood route!
23
craig.smith1 said on September 27th, 2014
Great line. Pretty techie for the grade and it never let's off.