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Weak Sauce Project

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery


1 votes

Gold Rush 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Terry Kindred in 2004
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right and around the corner from the wide crack to an overhanging and well featured face. This line is on the left side of the face and begins with a low roof and dirty start. Pull over the roof on good jugs to gain the plated face. Pull on plates and good edges to a less featured and more overhanging section near the top. Get a good shake and crank through big moves on smaller edges to a surprise ending.
Moves: Plates
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
pumpy (1) juggy (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.6 stars (77 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (77 votes)

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Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Sep 10th, 2010


J-Rock said on January 19th, 2005
J-Rock said on March 17th, 2005
The classic climb to the right of this one is "Mosaic" FA: Chris Martin
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2005
sustained with a crimpy crux at the top - it doesn't let up - great line.
the lurkist said on May 24th, 2005
One of the best 11d's in the Red.
Meadows said on September 15th, 2005
Beware of rock falling off the bottom, stay right and bring your degreaser!
Yasmeen said on March 16th, 2006
Definitely one of the best 11d's in the Red. I loved the roof at the beginning! Then I loved the jugs in the middle! Then I loved the long reaches and trickery at the end! Though it didn't love me and spat me off. =)
Power2U said on April 11th, 2006
steep4me said on April 11th, 2006
This route is so much fun--after you get through the munge on the bottom below the fun roof, huge jugs, and good crimps at the end!
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2007
12a if ur short
anticlmber said on September 11th, 2007
F that. 9+ if you're short. 8- if you whine about being short
Scaife said on April 6th, 2009
The large hook hold at the start is now a stepping stone at the base of the climb. Didn't seem to change the grade. The remaining rail is still good enough to pull the low roof move... You just have to pull a little harder. ;)
dustonian said on December 3rd, 2009
Vincent said on April 11th, 2010
I like it.
climb2core said on September 17th, 2010
I don' t know going straight up at finish seems more like 12a... way more than Wild Yet Tasty... I am probably just weak ;) Anyways, awesome route... I was thinking onsight all the way until going for the chains, LOL.
edmclen said on October 6th, 2010
I'm glad I wasn't the only one who fell at the last move. Such a classic!
Cromper said on October 17th, 2010
Love this climb! 4.99 stars, the only negative is the seeping start. Super cool climbing above the top bolt! Get on it.
climb2core said on November 1st, 2010
Found a no hands knee bar around the 3rd-4th bolt. Seemed to give me enough back that the top felt much easier.
der uber said on February 14th, 2011
pretty good
Spikeddem said on June 14th, 2012
I want the gold! Give me the gold!
climb2core said on June 14th, 2012
Really Spikeddem? Did we really need that video? It wasn't even about the Gold Rush.
Spikeddem said on June 14th, 2012
Just cuz that man wasn't in 1849 rushing for gold don't mean it don't apply to my feelings on rushing for gold on (the top of) this route.
climb2core said on June 14th, 2012
Didn't send yet? If get the no hands, it should feel easy for the grade.
Spikeddem said on June 15th, 2012
When I last got on it, I tried to find that no hander. I searched between the third and fourth, but the best I could find was a mediocre kneebar kind of in a froggie position. Maybe it would have felt more solid with jeans, but ain't no kneebar worth jeans in July in KY.
pawilkes said on June 15th, 2012
right before the second to last (?) bolt I got a good right heel-toe cam that took a lot of weight off and shook out on those jugs. I know nothing of a no hands rest though and something so low sounds kind of useless
Spikeddem said on June 15th, 2012
Yeah, pawilkes, I used the same heel-toe cam. I come from a land of vertical, technical limestone. As such, my recovery on steeper ground is still trying to catch up.
climb2core said on June 15th, 2012
Pawilkes, It is ironic that you say that you know nothing of the no hands rest... because you were there working on Mosaic with Blake when you watched me use it. I remember it distinctly, because you commented on it to Blake saying that you were not aware you could get a no hands and you asked him if he had known. Anyways, I did use one and I found it very helpful to fully recover even though it was only 30-35 ft or so up.
pawilkes said on June 15th, 2012
I apologize for forgetting passing details. Seeing something and then completely forgetting still means that I "know nothing" of it. You have an astonishing memory when it comes to our interactions.
climb2core said on June 15th, 2012
I wouldn't really expect you to remember. Not sure why I did, perhaps because I was using the knee bar at the time of the discussion and it was more relevant to me. I also remember you making through the crux of Mosaic and whipping just before the chains. Mostly because it was funny to hear Blake giving you shit after for not sending. ;) All in good fun!
whoneedsfeet said on October 14th, 2012
Amazing climb! Cannot wait to get back on this amazing red river gorge jug haul/pump fest.
Rusty said on May 11th, 2017
The heel-toe cam is still here in 2017 and it's beefy ... fun route don't let the manky start scare you away
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2018
Very solid for the grade. Likely a 12a with direct finish