Calm like a bomb

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

The Tribute


17.
+1
1 votes

Break the Scene 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jason Haas in 2005
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from All That Glitters past a large tree and locate this bolted left-angling dihedral.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
dihedral (2) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.37 stars (59 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (61 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 12th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: May 12th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Submitted by: Caspian
Date: May 5th, 2009

Comments

1
Sunshine said on May 3rd, 2005
I bolted it. It is called Break the Scene. I haven't been back to send it. It is probably a 12b. The anchors can be wet if it has rained much.
2
One-Fall said on August 4th, 2005
Great job on this route, Terry. Super fun.
3
Wes said on August 8th, 2005
Sweet route - bring your trad skilz...
4
Sunshine said on September 13th, 2005
Wess says 11d.
5
Paul3eb said on April 24th, 2006
looks like a pile.. and is a pile for a bolt or two but then it's pretty surprisingly good. don't screw the first couple moves up or you'll be swinging into the boulders behind you. good holds the whole time.. just fight the pump.
6
ray said on April 22nd, 2007
Have fun clipping the chains. Make sure you are fully recharged before you move out into the final section!
7
JR said on October 29th, 2007
I thought the chains should have been at cracks terminus. Same with its neighbor.
8
chossmonkey said on October 26th, 2008
Great route! I liked the ending moves and I thought reaching the anchors was easy enough. There is a higher hold that could be used as well to clip the anchor that I didn't use. It felt easy even for 12a, but I'll admit is suited me really well.
9
der uber said on March 23rd, 2009
I think this is a 4-5 star route. And the movement at the start wasn't that bad, I was too psuched to work my way into the crack to care. 12a is an ok grade, even though it might one of the easier 12a's. It's a real nice climb.
10
krampus said on June 8th, 2009
Probably my favorite 12 at the red so far, the movement through the dihedral is great, then you have to save enough for the finish. Don't tick it off till you clip from the jug, you are only cheating yourself otherwise.
11
krampus said on June 12th, 2009
also, I took my draws off this thing last week, who ever owns the draw on the first bolt can pm me if they want it back
12
dustonian said on December 3rd, 2009
pretty fun
13
Vincent said on April 11th, 2010
beautiful route
14
Cromper said on April 30th, 2012
Put a steel cleaning draw on this today so no one breaks their dome piece.
15
taurusclimber said on June 24th, 2012
I was happy for that cleaning draw yesterday.
16
symardila said on January 1st, 2013
Takes bomber gear all the way up, exept the run out at the end after crack ends.
17
dustonian said on January 1st, 2013
did you greenpoint it, señor trad stud?
18
Dmack said on January 2nd, 2013
Whats a greenpoint Dusty?
19
climb2core said on January 2nd, 2013
http://www.rockandice.com/news/1696-the-greenpoint-a-new-term-for-climbing-jargon
20
climb2core said on June 17th, 2013
I think this is a close as I will get to trad climbing for a while at least. You can get some decent stances to take it off the hands but man my left calf was burning by the end. Final move beta alert: Getting a far left toe and left drop knee makes the move to the chains much more reasonable. I do wonder why it was not a trad line that finished at the end of the crack? Surprised there was no trad push back?
21
THB said on August 5th, 2013
This is an incredible line! One of my favorite 12- routes in the gorge. Even with the cleaning draw on the 4th, this thing is still a pain in the ass to clean. It might be deserving of a few more permadraws for cleaning purposes... maybe I'll leave a couple more next time I'm out at the Gallery. I think anyone with an ounce of climbing technique should be able to figure out C2C's "beta alert" onsight. Also, it would be a shame if this thing finished at the end of the crack. The climbing from the end of the crack to the chains should not be missed. The anchors are in the right spot.
22
bcircell said on May 27th, 2014
This might be a contender for best 12a in the Red. Agree with the sentiment that it would benefit from an additional perma's for cleaning purposes.
23
Rumplesmooveskin said on October 26th, 2015
Anyone who says this is soft for the grade I suspect is not doing the final big move while fighting full pump. Or maybe you're just a beast. But without that move, this is 11d. I made it to the chains 3 times and fell going for that final move before finally hitting it.
24
clie said on November 12th, 2015
After I got my trad skills in order this felt leagues easier. Good rests all the way up. Such a beautiful line.
25
DrRockso said on April 19th, 2017
Fun route. The difficulty seems on par with Mosaic at 5.12b.
26
wohlf36 said on May 16th, 2017
Gate doesn't close (worn out spring) on the permanent cleaning draw. Beware if you clip it on the way up. Also noticed the quick link is starting to wear thru (chain connection to hanger). Sorry - did not have an open-end wrench on my harness, so I couldn't ​remove. Will bring one when I return in a couple weeks and check it. Great route!
27
Anonymous said on May 17th, 2017
Mid-11 at hardest
28
Chiyram said on May 17th, 2017
Close to 50 other people say at least 12a, you must be so strong!
29
Anonymous said on May 17th, 2017
Nah, Red climbers regularly using this site are just week little bitches
30
climbhigh said on May 17th, 2017
Weird, I always considered them monthly little bitches.....
31
whoneedsfeet said on June 19th, 2017
So umm what's up with the new anchor placement? I'd be more than happy to go and put them back where they belong.
32
taurusclimber said on November 5th, 2017
Where were the anchors moved to?
33
Spagel said on December 22nd, 2017
Incredible climb with fun movement. It is aesthetic and enjoyable. Blew the onsight at the last move over the lip! Hard 12a for sure, and wicked good!